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Ys road question

@GrantT It was a combination of my first real rindo ride, so I was in a vice like grip on the brake levers and overbraking until @luka gave me some advice about how to take the turns and brake with them. The bigger problem was my nervous-ness, especially with a new pair of carbon wheels. The calipers are earlier model 105s and the brake pads were brand new. I see regularly on HFC rides the they do not advise a combination of carbon rims and caliper brakes.
 
You might have Luka to thank for saving your rims. The heat build-up from dragging brakes can cause huge issues. Better technique will certainly help a lot. But if you were braking as hard as possible and still falling down the mountain then a more powerful front caliper (recent Dura-Ace) would be 100% an absolute must. Apart from that, sounds like the pads and rims were clean enough. The only other variable is the type of pads. Some carbon rim pads are terrible and some give as good or better braking than aluminium rims. From personal experience and what I read in general, Campagnolo red pads have the best overall reputation. They are all I use.
 
I've ridden on carbon rims exclusively on my road bikes for the last few years and I've never felt the need to go discs. I have a gravel bike that has discs and I honestly don't notice any difference when descending. Admittedly, most of my riding is done in fine weather but I have been caught out in some rain storms and I've found them to be reasonable. My caliper brakes with carbon rims have been fine for all the road riding I've done. As @GrantT said, good technique is important as you don't want to drag your brakes the whole way down the mountain the heat build up can warp your carbon rim and cause catastrophic failures. It sounds like you need to learn good braking techniques, although having disc brakes will negate the problem of your rims overheating and exploding.
Overheating is much more of a problem on carbon clinchers rather than tubulars due to the thicker carbon layer at the brake track as it needs to be able to withstand the pressures of a clincher tyre.
 
you might wanna scan the market and hold off on triggering just yet. around Xmas NY time one can usually get decent discounts, or if a store is closing etc. I remember cannondale was closing a store in Osaka or somewhere, and bikes were going for 40-50% off (if you find a model and size you want). you might also wanna spend some time riding and maintaining your bike, and see what others ride etc to get a better feeling for just what you need/want. I kinda rushed into buying my first two road bikes, and even perhaps the No 3 CX bike. but again, it's a constant evolving process so...
 
@luka this is early days, so....I essentially wanted to get it for next season. Got the Neo Tacx trainer and been slowly edging up to over 200km per week now since returning from USA, with 1-3 hills workouts per week.
 
@luka this is early days, so....I essentially wanted to get it for next season. Got the Neo Tacx trainer and been slowly edging up to over 200km per week now since returning from USA, with 1-3 hills workouts per week.
That's a decent amount of work. Are you using TrainerRoad or another app for structured training? (Highly recommended!)
 
If slipping on rindos is your main problem then I think you will find some wider tires will give you a lot more grip & confidence. Maybe your next bike should be one of them new fangled all-road bike thingys?
 
That's a decent amount of work. Are you using TrainerRoad or another app for structured training? (Highly recommended!)

I'm using Zwift, doing the 6 week FTP builder program and typically supplementing another 15 to 25k just riding per day.
 
I would second waiting for some winter sales, last year's model, etc.

(of course wiggle has sales, too)

edit: or, wait a while and @bloaker might have a bike for sale...! ;)
 
@jdd this is exactly what I'm going to do. The great news is the carbon wheel set I bought a few months ago from Light Bicycle will work fine with disc. Very happy about that as then I can not worry about pricing wheels into the new ride. I'll put the old wheels on my current bike and probably just use that exclusively for indoor training.
 
@jdd this is exactly what I'm going to do. The great news is the carbon wheel set I bought a few months ago from Light Bicycle will work fine with disc. Very happy about that as then I can not worry about pricing wheels into the new ride. I'll put the old wheels on my current bike and probably just use that exclusively for indoor training.
Not sure who told you that but you will need new hubs if you plan on running them with disc brakes. Well, I can't see the rear hub in the photos you posted when you first got the wheels, but the front hub is definitely only compatible with rim brakes. If you want to upload a picture of your rear we'll be able to see if it's compatible with disc (my guess is that it won't be).
If they are disc compatible hubs, you'll need new hubs, possibly new spokes and nipples (depending on if there is a difference in size between the rim brake hubs and disc brake hubs) and of course pay for someone to rebuild them.
 
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Not sure who told you that but you will need new hubs if you plan on running them with disc brakes. Well, I can't see the rear hub in the photos you posted when you first got the wheels, but the front hub is definitely only compatible with rim brakes. If you want to upload a picture of your rear we'll be able to see if it's compatible with disc (my guess is that it won't be).
If they are disc compatible hubs, you'll need new hubs, possibly new spokes and nipples (depending on if there is a difference in size between the rim brake hubs and disc brake hubs) and of course pay for someone to rebuild them.

Lightbicycle told me that based on the hubs I ordered which are both DT Swiss 240s. I'll double check with them again, likely their US support rather than the order lady I interacted with...Grace.
 
Snap a quick shot of your hubs up close and post them on here. I hope I'm wrong but I have a feeling you'll need new hubs. I'm guessing light bicycle are thinking you have disc hubs and you want to convert the axle diameter, but your hubs look like rim only hubs. Disc hubs either have a centre lock attachment or the 6 bolts to attach the discs. I can't see that on yours unfortunately
 
Plus, your wheel needs to be built for disc brakes, if you look carefully, you see that the disk brake side is shallower. It might be easier to sell the wheels and get new ones.
 
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