When to change a tire

Lawrence

Speeding Up
Jul 23, 2011
124
2
36
Chiba City
#1
I have a pair of Panaracer Pasela tires (a touring type tire) on my Gios with at least 962km on them (have had the bike about 5 months).

I can tell the back tread is a little worn (compared to the front) but they didn't have much tread to begin with.

When should I change em?

Is rotating an option (put the back tire on the front and vice versa)?
Guess if I take em off I'd rather just put new ones on though.

I already have Panaracer Massa T2301's to put on it.
Now these are the usual bald tires, how do you know when to change them?
 

kiwisimon

Maximum Pace
Dec 14, 2006
2,681
494
103
Japan
#2
when you can see threads is a good time to change, that or too many punctures. Ride them till there is nothing left or the sidewalls split.
 

rommelgc

Maximum Pace
Sep 3, 2009
362
101
73
Setagaya
#3
I have put 5K km on two sets of tires. Still no sign of replacing them.

Please do not rotate tires (back to front).
The front needs all the grip it can have. Using a worn tire up front and loosing grip is not really a good thing. Rotating the front to the back and then putting a new front tire is a better option. IMHO.
 

Lawrence

Speeding Up
Jul 23, 2011
124
2
36
Chiba City
#4
Thanks!

My tires probably still have a couple hundred km in them but (as you point out about slippage) I'd rather change them too soon than too late.
 

FarEast

Maximum Pace
May 25, 2009
5,528
538
193
Yokohama
#5
I have put 5K km on two sets of tires. Still no sign of replacing them.

Please do not rotate tires (back to front).
The front needs all the grip it can have. Using a worn tire up front and loosing grip is not really a good thing. Rotating the front to the back and then putting a new front tire is a better option. IMHO.
LOL it depends what type of tire you are using. My Vitttoria Open Corsa CX are as bald as a coot so no issues rotating.

However I would rather have a rear blow out at speed than a front wheel blow out! Most tires now come with a coloured under layer or top layer and when one is worn through and showing black or showing colour then it is time to change.

Side wall damage is also an issue if the side wall is damage you need to change immediately.
 

Ludwig

Speeding Up
Oct 9, 2008
871
0
36
Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
#6
Fully with James. I always put the new tyres on the front wheel and switch the front tyre to the back, where it eventually dies. It's for fear of blow-out. Only my very first puncture was on the front wheel, none ever since.

In fact, I only get punctures because of side cuts (always on rindos) or ageing tubes.

Unless side cuts destroy a tyre, it will last easily for something like 6,000km on the front wheel and another 6,000km on the back wheel.

So if your tyre is gone after just 1,000km, there is something odd going on. Could be a combination of insufficient pressure, high weight and bad material.
 

Lawrence

Speeding Up
Jul 23, 2011
124
2
36
Chiba City
#7
There's still some km on the tires but have read the Pasela's are cheap (thus they are on the bike when bought).

I now air up before every ride (the sidewall says 120PSI so I do it to that) and I'm about 80kg.

Tryin to lose weight but hard when my wife makes good meals for 4 people (and there are only 3, haha).
 

Lawrence

Speeding Up
Jul 23, 2011
124
2
36
Chiba City
#9
I already bought some tires when there was a sale at Art Sports in Ueno.

Was thinkin of Panaracer Race D's but got the Massa's (wanted JP technology).
Apparently he's some racer/rider and they made this tire, haven't seen them around (or on the Panaracer HP) so don't know how good they will be.
 

AlanW

Maximum Pace
Jan 30, 2007
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103
Tokyo
#12
When it looks like this:


I second what Ludwig says....you should expect at least 5000 km from a tyre for wear alone (fixed wheel riders excepted).
 

GSAstuto

Maximum Pace
Oct 11, 2009
945
242
103
tokyo
www.roadfixie.com
#15
My rain wheels with Gatorskins have no trouble. It's only when I'm running other tires like Challenge TT's , or using leftover tire from the P2L (more than 400km already on it with several small cuts).

Both my wife's bikes are fitted with Gatorskins and since I did, no flats at all. Soon as I burn through the couple of tires on my demo wheels, I'll change them for the Gators as well.

However for HC events, I'll continue to use lightweight tire like the Vittoria Cronos or Tufo Extreme Jet. Not too sold on the Challenge even though they ride much like the old Clement Setas they are patterned after. A bit lumpy and compared to the Jets, much more rolling resistance.

Also - the Gatorskins feel practically the same as the standard Conti Sprinter (at least in tubular). I guess for higher performance clincher the Gators may feel a bit sluggish - but if you want long lasting under all conditions they've been the best I've tried.

Surprisingly, as well, my Vittoria Open CX clincher on one of my first 50mm Carbon rim - and before that an old Campy rim is still kicking with more than 4000km on it! It seems to never die! Must have some good luck charm in it.

Considering I have more than 10 different wheels running on 4 different bikes, I don't consider 3 flats in this year 'frequent troubles'. Not counting the slowleak on the NPB P2L front wheel which also result from the glass patch we all ran through at least week's TT. That was quickly resolved by a quick squirt of Tufo sealant.

But judging from your frequent troubles, they don't seem to last that long??
 

GSAstuto

Maximum Pace
Oct 11, 2009
945
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103
tokyo
www.roadfixie.com
#17
GP4000s is a faster tire than the Gatorskin (clincher), it also has better traction in the wet. My thoughts are a perfect combo would be the 4000s on the front and Gatorskin on the rear. - on the tubularside - I can't tell the difference honestly. The Sprinter Gatorskin is only 25gr or so heavier than the standard Sprinter. Roadfeel is virtually identical. So, I'm pretty sold on the Gatorskins Tubular for everyday training, riding or whatever. For pure HC, TT or circuit race, then choice would be appropriate to the event - like Vittoria Cronos, Tufo, Conti 4000, SOYO, etc.

Burn through is an issue on the fixed gear - and the Gator can really take the abuse. Also it resists the cuts very well. I'd say if you're a careful and savvy rider looking for really great all around performance then the 4000s will be a slightly better choice. If you want a little more durability and toughness against burn through and cuts, then the Gator is a great choice.

But again - the best tire is the one YOU ride! This is one topic almost akin to politics and religion.

What I currently have mounted:

Tubulars:
- Challenge TT
- Tufo Extreme Jet
- Vittoria Cronos
- Conti Sprinter Gator
- Conti Competition

Clincher
- Schwalbe Ultremo ZX
- Conti Gator Hardshells
- Vittoria Open CX
- Conti GP4000s

What I have laying around:
- Panaracer Closers
- Panaracer SL
- Maxxis something
- Vittoria Rubinos
- Michelin something

On the 'to ride' list:

SOYO Seamless
Anything Tubeless
DuGaust
Veloflex
 

GSAstuto

Maximum Pace
Oct 11, 2009
945
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103
tokyo
www.roadfixie.com
#18
@Ludwig - I'm curious about your advice for CX wheels and tires. I have a new CX frameset and started to build it - so any info you have about that would be greatly appreciated!! perhaps I'll start a new thread.
 

Ludwig

Speeding Up
Oct 9, 2008
871
0
36
Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
#19
Ah, tyres for a cyclocross... Lots of choice. The profile makes a huge difference, and so does the compound. I tend to prefer faster ones with little profile so I can ride long distances in and out of the mountains more easily, but tyres with deeper profiles and softer compound work better on gravel, and make a big difference on snow. I haven't tried too many brands yet. Michelin has a nice one with little profile which is fast, and Panaracer has one with great grip but puts you really down in speed.

BTW, I bought a Specialized tyre a few weeks ago for more road racer, to try out something different and since I was in urgent need of a new tyre with the old one gone through a big side cut. So far I cannot tell any difference to GP4000S. Now time will tell how it does over time/km.