GSAstuto
Maximum Pace
- Oct 11, 2009
- 974
- 253
Thought I would post this as quite a few of you are adding tubular tires back into your stable.
In the past, we had use really nasty 'gutta' glue which required multiple layers and a near voodoo art to get the tire fitted properly. Luckily technology has advanced somewhat.
Currently there are several manufacturer's of 'tape' glue. This is a double backed - actually its just a soft somewhat gooey tape all the way through, on a roll with a plastic or paper stripping. I suggest using the Miyata Brand of tape - mainly because it uses a plastic stripper and is very easy to fit and rip. Plus, you can easily remove the tire and cleanup on the rim (especially carbon) is quite smooth.
Hard vs Soft gluing. Some riders prefer a hard glue. This means you use shellac (or thin layered) gutta to create a very hard and thin bond between tire and rim. Hard glued tires are more responsive and faster rolling than soft gluing because the compliance is reduced. How much faster or responsive? Well, unless you're on a track - it may be hard to notice. So, I'd stay with soft gluing techniques whcih include tape.
If you're riding primarily long rides and normal recreational or club riding, then probably all you need to do is tape-only on your tire. If you are doing circuit racing or required very hard braking and cornering, then I'd combine a shellac rim AND tape.
For those of you with Carbon wheels - clean the rim with denatured alcohol or a carbon-safe thinner. Using acetone ( a favorite) can soften the resin. Not so recommended. If you are prepping for severe duty (circuit racing for example) then apply a thin coating of Panaracer or Soyo glue. This is very near shellac in consistency and will give you a very nice , tacky base coat. Let it dry thorooughly.
Then whether you are working from a raw, cleaned rim or a base layered rim, roll on your tape. Leave the stripping layer on the tape!
Put on your tire and pump it up to about 35 PSI or so - then adjust the tire so it's running true - and use this opportunity to check for any quality issues , leaks etc. Once you glue it on, you want it to be right.
I'll usually pump it right up to running pressure at this point and just double check everything. Then reduce pressure back down to around 25-35psi. The reduced rpessure makes it easier to pull off the stripping layer.
Then strip off the plastic layer using consistent smooth pulls. You don't want to break the stripping layer and also don't want to distort the glue layer.
After you have it fully stripped - the wheel on the floor and press hard all the way around. Firmly seating the tire. Then spin it an check for run out and truing. You can manipulate the tire at his point cause the tape is relatively soft and malleable. Once you are satisfied, pump it to full presuure and spin again. You may need some small tweaking to get it perfect. If the tire has some small run outs - don't worry. Most tubulars are handmade and will have a little variance in the casing.
Then let it sit for about 30min before you ride. This will let it cure a bit and ensure a good bonding to rim. After that, it's good to go!
I've never rolled a tape-glued tire. Yet I have rolled gutta glued tires on several occassions (and have scars to prove it). It's no fun, cause usually a tire will roll when you are at speed AND in a hard corner / braking situation - the result is you end up flying off the apex of the corner. So - always check your tires before you race or ride. Grasp them firmly and try to roll them off the rim in a couple places. As I said, the tape glued tires have never given me any issues - but that doesn't mean you shouldn't pre-flight your gear. It's a good habit. And the race scrutineers are going to be much harder on your tire test than you!
With the shellac or base layer version, the bond will be really tight. So, for remove of the tire, it's gonna be a little tough. Take your time to work it off slowly and use a plastic blade to gently lift the tire.
For carbon rims take care you don't peel the carbon fiber along with the glue! You can damage the rim this way. Again, work the tire slowly free. Once it starts to break away, you can easily work it off the rim.
I might do another post on reparing tubulars. It's quite easy, actually.
In the past, we had use really nasty 'gutta' glue which required multiple layers and a near voodoo art to get the tire fitted properly. Luckily technology has advanced somewhat.
Currently there are several manufacturer's of 'tape' glue. This is a double backed - actually its just a soft somewhat gooey tape all the way through, on a roll with a plastic or paper stripping. I suggest using the Miyata Brand of tape - mainly because it uses a plastic stripper and is very easy to fit and rip. Plus, you can easily remove the tire and cleanup on the rim (especially carbon) is quite smooth.
Hard vs Soft gluing. Some riders prefer a hard glue. This means you use shellac (or thin layered) gutta to create a very hard and thin bond between tire and rim. Hard glued tires are more responsive and faster rolling than soft gluing because the compliance is reduced. How much faster or responsive? Well, unless you're on a track - it may be hard to notice. So, I'd stay with soft gluing techniques whcih include tape.
If you're riding primarily long rides and normal recreational or club riding, then probably all you need to do is tape-only on your tire. If you are doing circuit racing or required very hard braking and cornering, then I'd combine a shellac rim AND tape.
For those of you with Carbon wheels - clean the rim with denatured alcohol or a carbon-safe thinner. Using acetone ( a favorite) can soften the resin. Not so recommended. If you are prepping for severe duty (circuit racing for example) then apply a thin coating of Panaracer or Soyo glue. This is very near shellac in consistency and will give you a very nice , tacky base coat. Let it dry thorooughly.
Then whether you are working from a raw, cleaned rim or a base layered rim, roll on your tape. Leave the stripping layer on the tape!
Put on your tire and pump it up to about 35 PSI or so - then adjust the tire so it's running true - and use this opportunity to check for any quality issues , leaks etc. Once you glue it on, you want it to be right.
I'll usually pump it right up to running pressure at this point and just double check everything. Then reduce pressure back down to around 25-35psi. The reduced rpessure makes it easier to pull off the stripping layer.
Then strip off the plastic layer using consistent smooth pulls. You don't want to break the stripping layer and also don't want to distort the glue layer.
After you have it fully stripped - the wheel on the floor and press hard all the way around. Firmly seating the tire. Then spin it an check for run out and truing. You can manipulate the tire at his point cause the tape is relatively soft and malleable. Once you are satisfied, pump it to full presuure and spin again. You may need some small tweaking to get it perfect. If the tire has some small run outs - don't worry. Most tubulars are handmade and will have a little variance in the casing.
Then let it sit for about 30min before you ride. This will let it cure a bit and ensure a good bonding to rim. After that, it's good to go!
I've never rolled a tape-glued tire. Yet I have rolled gutta glued tires on several occassions (and have scars to prove it). It's no fun, cause usually a tire will roll when you are at speed AND in a hard corner / braking situation - the result is you end up flying off the apex of the corner. So - always check your tires before you race or ride. Grasp them firmly and try to roll them off the rim in a couple places. As I said, the tape glued tires have never given me any issues - but that doesn't mean you shouldn't pre-flight your gear. It's a good habit. And the race scrutineers are going to be much harder on your tire test than you!
With the shellac or base layer version, the bond will be really tight. So, for remove of the tire, it's gonna be a little tough. Take your time to work it off slowly and use a plastic blade to gently lift the tire.
For carbon rims take care you don't peel the carbon fiber along with the glue! You can damage the rim this way. Again, work the tire slowly free. Once it starts to break away, you can easily work it off the rim.
I might do another post on reparing tubulars. It's quite easy, actually.