Tech Tubeless set up

bloaker

Sincerely A Dick
Nov 14, 2011
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I've really only ever wondered about tubeless--but I have to say, this thread has been cautionary. (sorry)
Me too. When I have time I will google all the new cockney rhyming slang.
This thread has done nothing more than point out the absolute downfalls and how to deal with it.
I can pop an innertube in an instant if I chose to... and that would make me have to stop and change it...
We accept that and pretend that is the end of the conversation?

Nope - we could argue latex vs rubber vs slime. Certain rim/tire combos are hard to get apart and others are easy.
Everyone knows someone who once ran tubes and almost died because of stupid something or another....

Tubeless is not a requirement nor is it awful to do. Tubes are not failures and you can get around fine on them.

So that said - consider this...
Tubeless allows lower pressures for a smoother ride and some self sealing awesomeness that can keep you riding when a tube would have died. Tubeless also doesn't get pinch flats - which is brilliant.

The cost of tubeless? Initial setup (1 hour if you are learning) and 2 times or so a year you have to top off sealant (15 minutes).
-------------------

We can argue brands of sealant and rim tape all day - we could also argue brands of 5W-20 oil.... are you gonna not change your car's oil because of it?
 

bloaker

Sincerely A Dick
Nov 14, 2011
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Bacon Strips & Stan's Dars are "plugs" for tires that work 2 very different ways.
Again - preference - it is a way to repair a tire in seconds on the road side when the hole is too big for the sealant to close.

 

kiwisimon

Maximum Pace
Dec 14, 2006
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I have set up roughly 30 sets (so 60 wheels) tubeless. It is not hard.

6) Break the bead on one side and add your sealant.
with road tires I squirt it through the valve core.
7) Turn the wheel 180 degrees and reat the tire
8) Air it up and spin the wheel. Any small leaks should be sealed relatively quick by the sealant.

This entire process once you are familiar should take about 15-25 minutes a wheel.
I strongly recommend doing it yourself. You will need to top off fluid in the future. You may need to pop a tube in in the future and understanding all you need to do is helpful. You will need new tires at some point in the future... If you think knowing how to change a tire is important, so is this.
My take too. I do my wheels once a season when the new rubber goes on or I just give my bike a complete teardown and prep.
The first time was a learning experience but after that @Bloakers process is all I do and I inflate my tyres back to pressure every week as I do with my clinchers or tubulars (when I had them) I don't add extra sealant during the season and I don't make a point of spinning the wheels in storage. After yesterday the tubed tires are going to my son's bike and I'm doing two sets of wheels tubeless again.

The time spent learning the process is saved by more riding time and better feeling on the road IMHO.
 
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bloaker

Sincerely A Dick
Nov 14, 2011
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with road tires I squirt it through the valve core.
I have done it that way and do so when time is a factor. I have had valve cores get a gunked up from this and the only reason I opt to pop a bead. - note on mtb and gravel setups. My road is tubed still.
 
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kiwisimon

Maximum Pace
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Took me 5 minutes from stripping off the old tire and rim strip to riding on this wheel. 10 minutes for both. AND these tires are soo good. They really do roll well. Smooth, grippy and tubeless. They do tend to wear a bit quicker than some others I've been told. IMG_20200616_084050126_HDR.jpg
 

pedalist

Maximum Pace
Took me 5 minutes from stripping off the old tire and rim strip to riding on this wheel. 10 minutes for both. AND these tires are soo good. They really do roll well. Smooth, grippy and tubeless. They do tend to wear a bit quicker than some others I've been told. View attachment 20368
I'm running the same tires, but in the not tubeless version. They do roll well and they do wear a bit quicker. Also the 25mm Rubino Pro are a little narrower than the l 25mm GP4000s.
 

Half-Fast Mike

Lanterne Rouge-et-vert
May 22, 2007
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Well I tried. (Anagram of tired - the past tense of tire.)

One of my new WTB tires has what I assume to be a manufacturing defect at a mold point in the sidewall.

Result... flatness. (Please excuse the organic leak detector gel.)


Yes, there's sealant in there - Imezi schmoo with extra nanobots. I even tried a patch on the reverse. Back to tubes. A monku-gram™ has been despatched to bike.inn where I bought them.
 

kiwisimon

Maximum Pace
Dec 14, 2006
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Tan sidewall tubeless WTBs have a reputation for leaking, Have had for quite some time. Is that the Riddler? Get the black sidewall edition and they should be fine. I wouldn't settle for tubes in them*.
*But my last advice was worth less than nothing.
 
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andywood

Maximum Pace
Apr 8, 2008
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Well I tried. (Anagram of tired - the past tense of tire.)

One of my new WTB tires has what I assume to be a manufacturing defect at a mold point in the sidewall.

Result... flatness. (Please excuse the organic leak detector gel.)


Yes, there's sealant in there - Imezi schmoo with extra nanobots. I even tried a patch on the reverse. Back to tubes. A monku-gram™ has been despatched to bike.inn where I bought them.
I had a continental tyre doing that. But eventually it did seal after something like 3 weeks!

What tyre pressure are you running?

High pressure is good when you leave the tyre overnight to get the sealant to get into all the knooks and crannies.

However, when you are riding, a high pressure may stretch the matrix of the tyre and cause leakage. If you know what I mean.

Also I put in way more sealant than recommended, a full 120ml.

Today a tyre fixed itself but it's not always that lucky.

Some photos here.

Cheers, Andy

 
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Half-Fast Mike

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