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Wheels are probably a bigger upgrade, especially if you get modern wheels with a wider internal rim width that allows you to run lower pressures.I am currently debating whether 700 grams saved and better wheels of the Ultegra version is worth another 200,000...
@baribari
What make and model do you have in mind?
Wheels are probably a bigger upgrade, especially if you get modern wheels with a wider internal rim width that allows you to run lower pressures.
It has hydraulic disc brakes, so you won't need to change the hydraulic hoses.
Ah, yes, I thought you wanted external cabling. My mountain bike still has external cabling, and it is annoying.Internal gear cabling (the brake hoses are internal) looks better and is more aerodynamic. It's not a dealbreaker, though...
I already knew that there is no way you'd only pay the price based on the currency conversionIf it was "only" 4,000 USD I'd just buy the Ultegra version, but when you add the taxes and the Japanese markup it's over 500,000 yen, which is 200,000 more than the 105 version.
The 105 version has different wheels, saddle, cockpit, tires, and crank. None of which are really that important, since I'm immediately changing everything but the cockpit and wheels. Plus, aluminum cockpits are cheaper to replace and less prone to being damaged. And 105 parts are cheaper.
Essentially yes. Only once did something happen here: on my first disc brake mountain bike, I had Hayes FX9 disc brakes. After a few years, the brake fluid "crystalized" in parts of the brake hose and the inner workings, which made braking very spongy. So then the whole brake system had to be replaced. But I haven't heard that this happens a lot, and this was literally 15 years ago or so. Brake technology has advanced quite a bit since then and none of my bikes had to have their brake hoses replaced. Shifter cables are another story, though.this is an interesting point. I got my first hydraulic brakes bike about a year ago and was wondering about the brake hoses. is it basically as long as they don't get damaged and leak or something (and you don't need to shorten them for example) these just stay on for like ever? no need to replace them at all, as you can just replace the brake fluid, correct?
uuurghh short and steep mossy concrete climb... don't envy you on that one @andywood the crash, it says you hit the brakes but what happened? rear wheel washout, or OTB? you OK now?
ooouch! so OTB it was. MTBers practice to straddle over the bars and land on their feet in such circumstances. much narrower bars here should work to your advantage, but the overall geometry does not.... take care eh
@andywood
How did you like riding 1x? Was it offroad or on a road bike? What was the setup?
Hehe. A 34-tooth chainring is mountain bike territory, although 34:42 is quite sportyI've actually been riding x1 for a while as I wore out the outer chain ring.
I'm still riding that crank on the 34 small chain ring (will probably get a single 40 or the CX season).
Yup, had that experience myself recently. On a climb where I usually use something like 34:25 max, I tried going for 34:32 in the steeper bits, and it was glorious to pedal at 90~95 rpm rather than 70 rpm a more aggressive gear.Being able to climb at target 80rpm instead of 50 to 60rpm really saves the legs till the top of the climb and till the end of the overall ride.
Once you get used to hydraulic brakes, you never want to go back.With the hydraulic brakes I can also descend faster. Just need to be careful not to lock up!
@andywood
You had an entry SRAM 1x, so I assumed you had a test bike with Rival 1x or Force 1x.
Hehe. A 34-tooth chainring is mountain bike territory, although 34:42 is quite sporty
Yup, had that experience myself recently. On a climb where I usually use something like 34:25 max, I tried going for 34:32 in the steeper bits, and it was glorious to pedal at 90~95 rpm rather than 70 rpm a more aggressive gear.
Once you get used to hydraulic brakes, you never want to go back.