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Check your pads frequently and often!
I recently noticed my car's front pads are basically down to the last mm or so, and the rotors are basically worn out... This will probably end up costing me my coronacheck.
Damn, sounds like there is something wrong with your brakes. 3500m of wet descent shouldn't seem them off. I used to race downhill so I would go to Fujimi panorama and practice all weekend, rain or shin. On rainy weekends I would be probably doing 12 runs each day. Not sure how much elevation drop there is but I'm guessing over 500m so around 12,000m of drop, if not more. My pads would last way way longer than a week even in the worst conditions. Very strange.Yep, new pads front and rear last week. Basically wore them out in one ride. 3500m descending in the rain.
Andy
Damn, sounds like there is something wrong with your brakes. 3500m of wet descent shouldn't seem them off. I used to race downhill so I would go to Fujimi panorama and practice all weekend, rain or shin. On rainy weekends I would be probably doing 12 runs each day. Not sure how much elevation drop there is but I'm guessing over 500m so around 12,000m of drop, if not more. My pads would last way way longer than a week even in the worst conditions. Very strange.
That's definitely way too quick, pads shouldn't wear nowhere near that rate. The only instance where I can remember such fast wear is when you are going through mud and mud clogs the space between your pads and discs. That acts like sand paper and can literally sand off your pads and worse, your rotors.
Regarding saving vs. investing: if memory serves, you are riding an older Colnago CX bike that was converted to disc brakes, correct? If that's the case, I'd definitely save up for a new bike.
@andywood
Depending on what kind of riding you are doing, a hardtail may also be an option. It is true that with an unlimited budget, fullys are the way to go these days, they are just this good. The increase in traction more than makes up for the additional weight and slight loss in pedaling efficiency. But if your budget is limited, a good hard tail may still be an option, especially if you are more interested in XC marathon races and the like.
@baribari
A CAADX is great. Does the bike have hydraulic disc brakes?
You hadn't mentioned the price. But for that price you might still want to pick it up. The frame is a good design and can be updated with a better groupset later if necessary.No, but the bike is only 120,000 yen, so asking for hydraulic brakes is.... optimistic.
You hadn't mentioned the price. But for that price you might still want to pick it up. The frame is a good design and can be updated with a better groupset later if necessary.
I have 105-level hydraulics on my road bike, they work very well. Although I have the non-IceTech rotors on my road bike, and they are not as good as my IceTech XTR rotors on my mountain bike. Given how much you ascend — and thus, descend — I'd recommend going for 160 mm front and rear. Although if you are gravel riding, perhaps the GRX shifters would also be an option for you. I haven't handled them myself, but AFAIK they are fully compatible (as long as you get the 11-speed mechanical version).If it's much better than my set up with drum brakes front and rear, then I may think about a hydraulic set up. 105 seems to retail for about 50,000 yen for example.
I heard @bloaker is ready to sell another bike at one point this yearThen there is the MTB! Definitely want one at some point. I think I'd like to go all in. Maybe keep my eyes open for something second hand.
I have 105-level hydraulics on my road bike, they work very well. Although I have the non-IceTech rotors on my road bike, and they are not as good as my IceTech XTR rotors on my mountain bike. Given how much you ascend — and thus, descend — I'd recommend going for 160 mm front and rear. Although if you are gravel riding, perhaps the GRX shifters would also be an option for you. I haven't handled them myself, but AFAIK they are fully compatible (as long as you get the 11-speed mechanical version).
I heard @bloaker is ready to sell another bike at one point this year
Nice.shimano 160 ice rotors
FYI, if you need more range, SRAM's 11-36 cassette should still fit. And perhaps also Shimano's 11-40 cassette.ultegra derrailleur modified with a long gauge to accomodate an 11/34 cassette
There is also a Tiagra-level 10-speed GRX shifter, and I reckon (although I have not checked!) that this is compatible with all 10-speed Shimano rear derailleurs.If I go the hydraulic way I will research the difference between 105 and GRX.
Nice.
FYI, if you need more range, SRAM's 11-36 cassette should still fit. And perhaps also Shimano's 11-40 cassette.
There is also a Tiagra-level 10-speed GRX shifter, and I reckon (although I have not checked!) that this is compatible with all 10-speed Shimano rear derailleurs.
My Niner came with GRX 800 (Ultegra-level) drivetrain. It's all really nice. Braking is so sweet.If I go the hydraulic way I will research the difference between 105 and GRX.