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Race The Training Thread

That's a nice calculator--I'll be playing with it a little later today.
 
My bike is a 10-speed 105 and Shimano doesn't even make a 105 or Ultegra 11-32... not that 10-speed road derailleurs can handle that much capacity anyway. Haha.

I think they make an 11-32 mountain bike cassette, but the jumps probably wouldn't be reasonable with a 10-speed.

My rear derailleur will take a 30, but it would be 1 tooth overcapacity. Not sure whether just two more teeth would be worth the money. Maybe next time my cassette wears out.


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I may have had my ISM saddle too high, hence the saddle sore. Strange how comfortable it was for two days until suddenly it didn't feel nearly as good yesterday. I am going to probably have to take a few days off.
 
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I was re-reading the Obree Way and now I am wondering whether doing all my training with the door closed (because I had the AC on) means I've been doing every ride in a hypoxic chamber. Hahaha.

It wasn't a big deal with my old house since that place was leakier than a sieve...

That would explain why everything past the first interval block was so damned hard...
 
My bike is a 10-speed 105 and Shimano doesn't even make a 105 or Ultegra 11-32... not that 10-speed road derailleurs can handle that much capacity anyway. Haha.

This is what I had too: an older 105 model 10 speed 12-27 cassette. The 11-32 arrived yesterday and I did a trainer run with it this morning, and it worked fine. This was the Shimano model: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-m6000/CS-HG500-10.html.

There was a 10-12% grade on a small part of the route and the 32T sprocket made a huge difference. This was after a lot of research on Shimano's website, done after reading every comment, particularly Stomec's, on this write-up: https://road.cc/content/feature/213...ower-gears-make-climbing-easier-heres-how-get
 
I have a semi-compact with a 11-30 cassette at the back on my new bike. It took a bit of getting used to (serious lack of fitness), but I'm now ok when climbing the shady forest roads. However, climbing Nihongi the other day with the blazing hot sun on my back was a completely different story. Worst climb I've ever done. I needed to stop three times on the way up. I'd have probably only got up there in one go on a motorbike!
 
I have a semi-compact with a 11-30 cassette at the back on my new bike. It took a bit of getting used to (serious lack of fitness), but I'm now ok when climbing the shady forest roads. However, climbing Nihongi the other day with the blazing hot sun on my back was a completely different story. Worst climb I've ever done. I needed to stop three times on the way up. I'd have probably only got up there in one go on a motorbike!
Nihongi isn't known for its kindness to cyclists.
 
I have a semi-compact with a 11-30 cassette at the back on my new bike. It took a bit of getting used to (serious lack of fitness), but I'm now ok when climbing the shady forest roads. However, climbing Nihongi the other day with the blazing hot sun on my back was a completely different story. Worst climb I've ever done. I needed to stop three times on the way up.
It is always tempting for all of us to use race gearing, i. e. the gearing we use when we are at peak fitness and motivation. IMHO it is always better to err on the side of having one or two extra climbing gears rather than having one more gear on top or tighter spacing between gears. Plus, wider cassettes allow you to shift less often in the front, which is what I prefer.

A semi-compact (52/36) on the front and 11-30 in the rear gives you essentially the same smallest gear as 34/28 = 1.21. So probably a compact crank + 11-32 would work better for you. Since starting indoor training, I don't think I have used 34/32 outdoors, but when I was doing hill climb repeats, I'd use that gear quite often when doing VO2max intervals. The half gear you lose on the top end isn't really important in most situations. Yes, there are places where I spin out my compact crank, but then I am >60 km/h and unless I am racing, that's plenty fast for me.
 
This is what I had too: an older 105 model 10 speed 12-27 cassette. The 11-32 arrived yesterday and I did a trainer run with it this morning, and it worked fine. This was the Shimano model: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-m6000/CS-HG500-10.html.

There was a 10-12% grade on a small part of the route and the 32T sprocket made a huge difference. This was after a lot of research on Shimano's website, done after reading every comment, particularly Stomec's, on this write-up: https://road.cc/content/feature/213...ower-gears-make-climbing-easier-heres-how-get

You have the medium/long cage derailleur, right? I have a short. I don't want to buy another one since I just bought this one about a year ago to replace a derailleur that may or may not have worked fine (just had a little to much side to side play)

My bike is in pieces at the moment since I decided I was going to try to fix a bad water bottle mount... and now it's rattling around in my frame.... and I need new cables.... and my BB shell may be way out of spec.
 
You have the medium/long cage derailleur, right? I have a short. I don't want to buy another one since I just bought this one about a year ago to replace a derailleur that may or may not have worked fine (just had a little to much side to side play)

My bike is in pieces at the moment since I decided I was going to try to fix a bad water bottle mount... and now it's rattling around in my frame.... and I need new cables.... and my BB shell may be way out of spec.

I think mine is short or medium. It came with the 105 groupset on the bike, which was given to me in 2012-13ish. Sorry to hear about the rattling and good luck with the BB as well, @baribari
 
I'll measure it after work. But I looked at some vids on YouTube from GCN and it does not look like a long cage.

Thanks. I managed to get the bastard out. Only cost me my sanity, the better part of a day and a half, and one night's sleep.
 
I did a couple of decent climbing efforts today. I would have been even faster up the main climb if I hadn't had to stop to move my iPhone, so it didn't get soaked in a downpour I found myself in. Btw, I got out of the saddle a lot more on the climbs and it really helped. Felt really good to be honest😊
 
Was the saddle hard to set up? From ISM's website I gather than the two "arms" can bend in slightly different directions if you don't mount the saddle properly in the clamp.

I just noticed that the noses can actually get slightly twisted if you aren't careful with the clamp.
 
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