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Pads are blue. Probably Shimano.
Any chance these blue pads would be SwissStop?

I would try sanding them down to remove the black layer and see if they're OK again after that, or if it happens again. I will readily admit that I have zero experience with carbon rims with basalt brake tracks...
 
Looking at getting some masks for prolonged usage this winter as COVID surges and we head indoors. All the sports type (mizuno UA adidas etc) seem to be sold out. What are you finding to be a comfortable washable mask solutions? cheers
best mask is the N95
or make your own using a cotton bandana ( much more easier to breath then them pollen mask )
 
think that is just crap that got cooked through heat build up. Sandpaper off the pads, rub the brake track clean with cleaner and alcohol and you should be good.
 
The ¥1000 yen tyre boot trick

In case, like me today, you ever find yourself with a sidewall cut that will lead to another puncture due to a tube hernia, and you're without a proper sticky tyre boot to patch it from the inside...

boot1.jpg

...know that Japanese banknotes are sufficiently durable for the task.

boot2.jpg

It's only the second time I've had to do this. The first time - about 10 years ago - I left it in for a week or riding, and the folded banknote disintegrated. I. took all the parts to my bank, and they swapped it for a fresh one.
 
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But how, and how many times, do you fold it. And is leaving fuji on the outside against the sidewall really that much better?
 
Brifters not shifting well at all:

Pretty old ultegras, sat for a while, and don't shift well now, tho after some (attempted) 'use' they seem slightly better. I think this is the ratchet pawls or something gummed/morked up, and not a frayed or near broken cable--both sides are similarly affected.

What kind of service is due? (Don't worry, or suggest it. I'm not going to take those things apart.) Google tells me some shimano models are more affected by this than others.
 
Brifters not shifting well at all:

Pretty old ultegras, sat for a while, and don't shift well now, tho after some (attempted) 'use' they seem slightly better. I think this is the ratchet pawls or something gummed/morked up, and not a frayed or near broken cable--both sides are similarly affected.

What kind of service is due? (Don't worry, or suggest it. I'm not going to take those things apart.) Google tells me some shimano models are more affected by this than others.

If you spray some 「oil in cleaner」direct into the ratchet mechanism and then work through the gears with the bike on a stand, you might get them going again.

Andy
 
...「oil in cleaner」...
Uh, examples? Even googling that with 'bicycle' added, I get a slew of chain-related suggestions.

Would a teflon chain lube be worth a try on its own?

I'd be leery of it but how about a shot of parts cleaner followed by chain lube?
 
I'd recommend sewing machine oil. It's not at all viscous which is bad in a gearing ratchet applicationas crud will stick to it. Raid the sewing machine accessories box next time you are home alone. Or your hair clippers oil.
 
@jdd most silicon sprays are designed to stick and provide long lasting protection.
That is not good in a shifter ratchet as dust and dirt stick to it as well. Make sure you get a dry silicon spray and it won't be as cheap as regular silicone spray but good for places you don't want dust accumulating,
 

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Boeshield T9 if you can get it.

edit: wow did not realize it's so pricey in jp.
 
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