Help The Helpful Thread
- Thread starter theBlob
- Start date
Half-Fast Mike
Lanterne Rouge-et-vert
- May 22, 2007
- 4,402
- 3,279
Seeking a trailer
I wonder if anyone has (or knows anyone who has) a bike luggage trailer for sale/rent/scrounge? Something like a Topeak Journey or Bob Yak. Don't need kiddie seats. I'd probably only need it for one or two summer trips. Thinking ahead just in case. DM me...
I wonder if anyone has (or knows anyone who has) a bike luggage trailer for sale/rent/scrounge? Something like a Topeak Journey or Bob Yak. Don't need kiddie seats. I'd probably only need it for one or two summer trips. Thinking ahead just in case. DM me...
luka
Maximum Pace
- Jan 13, 2015
- 2,195
- 2,027
I'm genuinely interested but cannot google this successfully apparently. looking at some honey I bought today, it says 100g contain 82g of carbohydrates, which is to be expected. as is the fact that it has virtually no other macro nutrients like protein or fat etc. so.... where's the rest of the 100g?! almost 20 percent of it are apparently not carbs, nor anything else that we can identify? or is a g in weight not the same as a g in nutritional value?
- Jul 26, 2008
- 3,048
- 1,463
Hey helpful people,
SPD SL pedals and shoes, both used for a long time.
On the right side (which is used more, unclipping that side at stops), the shoe/cleat seems not to lock/snap in without some bother to get it clipped in. Unclipping is as normal.
Is this a sign of a worn out cleat? Easily solved with some new ones?
Or something else that I should consider?
TIA,
jdd
SPD SL pedals and shoes, both used for a long time.
On the right side (which is used more, unclipping that side at stops), the shoe/cleat seems not to lock/snap in without some bother to get it clipped in. Unclipping is as normal.
Is this a sign of a worn out cleat? Easily solved with some new ones?
Or something else that I should consider?
TIA,
jdd
microcord
Maximum Pace
- Aug 28, 2012
- 1,160
- 670
Years ago I bought a jersey from ScudoPro. Years of living in Japan, or sleepiness, or plain stupidity, led me to order it in size L, so from the start it was too big. Still, it has been comfortable and I like it. Time to get a more "form"-fitting replacement. (Not fitting too well, as the "form" is better left unseen.) I ordered one in M, with long sleeves. I swiftly received one that was clearly labelled as having long sleeves -- but actually had short sleeves. I fired off a polite but grumpy email. The reply came back very quickly: I was welcome to keep the short-sleeved one; a long-sleeved one would soon be on its way. (Rather as I'd expected, but no hemming and hawing, no form-filling, no nonsense.) And I received it yesterday (ding-dong on the doorbell while I was Zooming for the first time in over two months). So thumbs up for ScudoPro!
Chuck
Maximum Pace
- Feb 7, 2011
- 1,257
- 1,428
LOL! I can relate.
Winston Leg-Thigh
Maximum Pace
- Mar 31, 2015
- 170
- 184
PSA for anyone using Shimano RS505 shifters (although the same might apply to other models, too).
Started getting the occasional problem shifting into the smallest sprockets at the back. Was out yesterday and for the last 20km it wouldn't shift into the bottom 3 gears. Had a look at it today and it seems as though the cable has "eaten" through the cable guide that's in the lever and then through part of the shifter before wedging itself in the ratchet.
A quick look on Google and it seems the same has happened to other people (https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13089841/rs505-cable-guides-a-cautionary-tale). Wish I'd seen this before, as, like the person who started the thread, I had no idea that the cable guides in the shifter needed changing and that if they break, that's your shifter completely goosed.
Started getting the occasional problem shifting into the smallest sprockets at the back. Was out yesterday and for the last 20km it wouldn't shift into the bottom 3 gears. Had a look at it today and it seems as though the cable has "eaten" through the cable guide that's in the lever and then through part of the shifter before wedging itself in the ratchet.
A quick look on Google and it seems the same has happened to other people (https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13089841/rs505-cable-guides-a-cautionary-tale). Wish I'd seen this before, as, like the person who started the thread, I had no idea that the cable guides in the shifter needed changing and that if they break, that's your shifter completely goosed.
luka
Maximum Pace
- Jan 13, 2015
- 2,195
- 2,027
thanks @Winston Leg-Thigh I had no idea this was a thing either. I'll be replacing shifter cables soon and will make sure to inspect this thoroughly... looks like it might not even be the cable guides, as plenty of people in that thread had the shifter destroyed with that guide still intact
Hi Everyone,
Just wondering if anyone has tips for an apartment dweller that wants to overhaul and repaint an old beater. I was looking at a few prices at LBSs and other places posted in the forums but the service would be more expensive than what the bike is actually worth. I'm very apprehensive of even doing maintenance on the parking spaces as I might leave grease spots and whatnot. I cannot bring the bike in as the wife would leave my lifeless body floating on the Arakawa river. Really wanting to give the bike some TLC but don't know where.
Thanks for the advice!
Just wondering if anyone has tips for an apartment dweller that wants to overhaul and repaint an old beater. I was looking at a few prices at LBSs and other places posted in the forums but the service would be more expensive than what the bike is actually worth. I'm very apprehensive of even doing maintenance on the parking spaces as I might leave grease spots and whatnot. I cannot bring the bike in as the wife would leave my lifeless body floating on the Arakawa river. Really wanting to give the bike some TLC but don't know where.
Thanks for the advice!
kiwisimon
Maximum Pace
- Dec 14, 2006
- 3,726
- 1,944
what have you got and do you have your own parking space?
You really want to tear it down, sand off any rust bits, spray a primer filler and then spray on a color?
I did one of my bikes on the balcony after dropping down a sheet of plastic and newspapers. More than space, being able to leave the bike long enough for the paint to dry was my biggest problem.
You really want to tear it down, sand off any rust bits, spray a primer filler and then spray on a color?
I did one of my bikes on the balcony after dropping down a sheet of plastic and newspapers. More than space, being able to leave the bike long enough for the paint to dry was my biggest problem.
I'm in a UR apartment and we have communal sheds for parking. At the very least I would want to clean and degrease bearings and stuff. I don't know if my neighbors would take kindly to the smell of spray paint on the balcony
yeap, no one grills fish on balconies and "technically" not even allowed to dust off rugs and stuff. I guess I'll wait for the next consecutive days of sun before trying this out. Thanks a bunch!
Edit: just remembered that our balcony doesn't have drainage. weird and very mendokusai
microcord
Maximum Pace
- Aug 28, 2012
- 1,160
- 670
My regular chain lube is "Finish Line wet". Aside from the fact that the chain reverts from grey to black within 10 km of application, it works well for me. (And to be fair, the blackness may be due to my incompetence rather than the species of lube.)
But I also have a can of "Naskalub":
Down the top two thirds of the left of the can as shown in this stock photo is a thin tube. You swivel this up ninety degrees or so and press the button on the top of the can, and "quick spray action the highest quality" [I quote] comes out of the nozzle.
It's horribly difficult to position the nozzle just right; and if one did somehow manage to do this, most of that quick spray action [Hmm, sounds like a species of pr0n] would surely be bounced back by the chain. So I position it a little short of the chain, and fire -- and an estimated 90% whizzes past the chain and lubricates the concrete below, the spokes, the rear rim, whatever.
Is there any effective way of dealing with this design of can? (Am I supposed to fire it at a cloth, and then use the resulting "quick spray action the highest quality" cloth to wipe the chain? But that seems perverse....)
(I rather wish that I didn't have the damn thing, but throwing it in the trash would not be environmentally friendly. So I'd like to use up its content.)
But I also have a can of "Naskalub":
Down the top two thirds of the left of the can as shown in this stock photo is a thin tube. You swivel this up ninety degrees or so and press the button on the top of the can, and "quick spray action the highest quality" [I quote] comes out of the nozzle.
It's horribly difficult to position the nozzle just right; and if one did somehow manage to do this, most of that quick spray action [Hmm, sounds like a species of pr0n] would surely be bounced back by the chain. So I position it a little short of the chain, and fire -- and an estimated 90% whizzes past the chain and lubricates the concrete below, the spokes, the rear rim, whatever.
Is there any effective way of dealing with this design of can? (Am I supposed to fire it at a cloth, and then use the resulting "quick spray action the highest quality" cloth to wipe the chain? But that seems perverse....)
(I rather wish that I didn't have the damn thing, but throwing it in the trash would not be environmentally friendly. So I'd like to use up its content.)
- Jul 26, 2008
- 3,048
- 1,463
For the least overspray.
I set my bikes against a wall so that with my right hand I can spin the crank backwards, while at the same time I get the "thin tube" up close and personal with my left hand, right at the top of the cassette. Have the rear in a middle gear, not top or bottom. Probably a cm or less away. Then, spin everything backwards fast, while spraying the chain kind of as it hits/goes around the cassette. I sometimes hit the pulley bearings with the briefest of spurts.
I do the same with non-aerosol, but it's tedious to get a drop on every link, or every other, and it usually ends up too wet. So in either case, a quick wipe to remove the excess.
I set my bikes against a wall so that with my right hand I can spin the crank backwards, while at the same time I get the "thin tube" up close and personal with my left hand, right at the top of the cassette. Have the rear in a middle gear, not top or bottom. Probably a cm or less away. Then, spin everything backwards fast, while spraying the chain kind of as it hits/goes around the cassette. I sometimes hit the pulley bearings with the briefest of spurts.
I do the same with non-aerosol, but it's tedious to get a drop on every link, or every other, and it usually ends up too wet. So in either case, a quick wipe to remove the excess.