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pedalist

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Jan 24, 2015
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Are my brake pads/ Is my caliper positioned wrong (too low)?
 

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pedalist

Maximum Pace
Jan 24, 2015
405
506
I was a running out of time when wroting the post above.
Here are now a few more details on my problem.
A while ago I got new rotors (180mm) and pads.
I installed the front rotor using an flat mount adapter (not exactly this one but basically the same kind https://www.fahrrad.de/reverse-is-pm-disc-adapter-shimano-180-mm-hinten-M121680.html)
I bedded them in and they worked nice and quietly, but only for a short time.
I didn't so any bigger rides (actually I didn't ride the bike much at all). After one dusty ride the front brake started squeaking loudly and the braking power went down a lot.
I cleaned the pads and rotor, but the noise would not go away.
I got special brake cleaner, changed pads (no new pads though),
sanded the pads down, played around with the position, but nothing seems to help.
Then today I noticed that the marks on the rotor look a little off.
It's just a bit confusing that the brake was working well before (right after installing).
I hate the squeaking, but I'm even more annoyed and worried about the poor braking power.
I've got no clue what happened.
 
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kiwisimon

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Dec 14, 2006
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Sounds like you did everything properly but it's probably contaminated pads. Switch your rotors and pads with the rear ones that don't squeal and see if that works. Might be quicker to just buy new pads if sanding them hasn't cleaned them. You have tried rubbing alcohol on the rotors?
 

luka

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Jan 13, 2015
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@pedalist this looks and sounds a lot like my cheap shimano setup on the CX bike. if my experience is anything do go by, the whole setup is inadequate. I found that braking power always went down after several weeks, and required thorough cleaning, repositioning of the piston position AND bedding it all again to kinda get some braking power back. but it tended to go down over time anyway. I put it to low quality of all the parts involved, esp rotor and the caliper, as well as to the inherently less reliable cable system, as opposed to the hydraulics
 

luka

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Jan 13, 2015
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but at least you can be sure that the position is not that far off. leaving a mm or two on top is within the acceptable range, and certainly better than having them positioned too high and missing the rotor by a similar amount. so no need to worry about caliper position based on those braking marks in my opinion
 

pedalist

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Jan 24, 2015
405
506
Sounds like you did everything properly but it's probably contaminated pads. Switch your rotors and pads with the rear ones that don't squeal and see if that works. Might be quicker to just buy new pads if sanding them hasn't cleaned them. You have tried rubbing alcohol on the rotors?
I skipped the alcohol since I thought brake cleaner is already as far as one could go. I'll give it a try.
I think I'll go with new rotor and pads for the front. I don't want to touch my rear brake set up since it's performing great.
It's a little unsatisfying not knowing what wrong, though.
 

pedalist

Maximum Pace
Jan 24, 2015
405
506
@pedalist this looks and sounds a lot like my cheap shimano setup on the CX bike. if my experience is anything do go by, the whole setup is inadequate. I found that braking power always went down after several weeks, and required thorough cleaning, repositioning of the piston position AND bedding it all again to kinda get some braking power back. but it tended to go down over time anyway. I put it to low quality of all the parts involved, esp rotor and the caliper, as well as to the inherently less reliable cable system, as opposed to the hydraulics
That sounds like a real pain. I hope that' turns out different in my case. One thing that keeps my hope alive is the great performance of the rear brake with the same set up (only 160mm instead of 180mm).
Btw, it's an old simple hydraulic brake (Tektro Auriga Pro).
 

pedalist

Maximum Pace
Jan 24, 2015
405
506
Short update:
I adjusted the hight of the brake by 2mm and the alignment.
I also gave the rotor and pads another thorough scrub with alcohol.
Last I bedded them in again.
So far so good. Braking power is back and noise is gone. But it'll take some rides before I really believe that it's fixed.
 

stu_kawagoe

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Jun 23, 2018
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Helpful thread, how much would you pay in Japan 10, 20 and 30 years ago for a top of the range production road bike? My interest was piqued when I saw the new Tarmac is retailing for 1,452,000 yen!
 

wexford

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Jul 3, 2012
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I have no idea. but that's a high end bike. High end cars are expensive too. A Ferrari depending on the model can be around 25~30 million. I guess that's not helpful though. I have ridden the Tarmac sl5 and sl6 though. I didn't like the sl5 very much as it was harsh but the sl6 was the best bike that I have ever ridden (not saying much). That was a rental in CA and was not s-works, and was ultegra. The groupset didn't seem to add or subtract to the bike feel though. I just loved the way it cornered and climbed. I remember my huge smile and my sadness at returning the rental. I rode the new Roubaix last time I was over (in CA) and didn't like that very much although it was a huge improvement over the previous model.

Regardless... I'm sure you would feel just like this if you dropped the wad of cash on it.

Sorry. I don't think I answered your question. Hopefully someone else can chime in with numbers.
 

stu_kawagoe

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Jun 23, 2018
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That’s useful context about Ferraris @wexford. I did look seriously at the Tarmac when I was deciding what bike to buy last year. However, in an ironic twist, I went with Cannondale mainly because my LBS was a pretty big dealer for the brand but a few months latter he mainly started stocking Spesh and no Cannondale anymore!

Cheers for the info @kiwisimon. That was just what I wanted to know. How did your Kestrel ride? Much different to the race machines of today?
 
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joewein

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Oct 25, 2011
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You ride to the shop and as you're getting ready to go inside, you realize you forgot to bring the key for your bike lock. You can't lock it up :( Plenty of people around. Maybe it's in the evening, not too far from a local station, where some people occasionally "borrow" unlocked bikes to get home more quickly. Are you going to ride home again to pick up the key?

What I normally do in this situation is to thread the helmet straps through the rear wheel and latch them. That's it. It means no one will be able to just swing their leg over the top tube and ride off on your bike because the wheel won't turn. At the very least they will need to touch your yucky sweaty helmet and figure out how to undo the straps and then decide what to do with the helmet.

If you happen to have your cable lock with you, say in your front bag or saddle bag but just can't open it to thread it through the frame and wheel, you can fake-lock it by hanging it next to the wheel suspended from the helmet straps. To a casual observer from 10 m away it will look like a bike locked with a cable lock, until they take a closer look.

OK, I'm not saying your bike will never get stolen when you do this and I would never risk this in Roppongi or Shibuya, but in a quiet part of town this little fudge will give you some peace of mind while you pop into the shop for five minutes. Next time, remember to always bring the key for that lock!

Coolest bike lock I ever saw: A pair of handcuffs used to lock the rear wheel of a police bicycle in California in 1995.
 
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Tanki

Maximum Pace
Aug 7, 2014
190
111
When you buy a bike second hand you don't need the former owner with you when you change the registration if you have their registration papers.
However you must have the bike with you that you wish to register so the bike serial number can be authenticated.
Probably no need to post this, I mean what type of idiot couldn't figure that out?:innocent:
 

kiwisimon

Maximum Pace
Dec 14, 2006
3,435
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You ride to the shop and as you're getting ready to go inside, you realize you forgot to bring the key for your bike lock. You can't lock it up :( Plenty of people around. Maybe it's in the evening, not too far from a local station, where some people occasionally "borrow" unlocked bikes to get home more quickly. Are you going to ride home again to pick up the key?
Coolest bike lock I ever saw: A pair of handcuffs used to lock the rear wheel of a police bicycle in California in 1995.
I will just carry the front wheel with me in that case. Means a thief will have to carry the bike and that sticks out like dog's bollocks in a crowd.
 

kiwisimon

Maximum Pace
Dec 14, 2006
3,435
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Looking at getting some masks for prolonged usage this winter as COVID surges and we head indoors. All the sports type (mizuno UA adidas etc) seem to be sold out. What are you finding to be a comfortable washable mask solutions? cheers
 

luka

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Jan 13, 2015
2,049
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What are you finding to be a comfortable washable mask solutions?

I've been using the Under Armour one, for a few weeks now. last time I checked they still had them on Rakuten for about 3K jpy. it's good that it covers everything from under my chin all the way to the ears. but even though it has a metal(?) fitting rod, the part that fits on the nose is a bit loose and there's some gaps. however, I am yet to find a mask with perfect fit everywhere, so it's a compromise I guess... gotta watch out as they come in like 4-5 sizes too
 

RRditch

Cruising
Jan 28, 2020
43
81
I have been using the UA and Oakley. I picked up on Base and ordered some from UA . I like the UA nose I saw on a YouTube that one guy wore it upside down he liked it better that way. the Oakley is wrap around the head type not around the ears I been using it on my commute like it so far.
 

Half-Fast Mike

Lanterne Rouge-et-vert
May 22, 2007
4,267
2,967
Anyone remember anything about rim brakes? I know it's a bit old-fashioned now, but someone may have a good memory.

Yesterday I was getting some alarming squealing from my rear when braking really hard. (From my rear wheel/brake, that is.) Slowing down from 50 or 60 km/h for hairpin curves.

Had a look at the brake pads, while cleaning:

IMG_8217.jpg

Pads are blue. Probably Shimano. Wheels are carbon with a basalt braking track. The smooth black stuff definitely wasn't there last week.

I can easily get new pads. I guess my concern is that the braking track is on its way out. There's no damage that I can see or feel, though. What do you think?
 
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