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Karl

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I just bought a Lezyne Super Pro cycling computer. It's water resistant but I was a little worried about taking it out for a long ride in the rain this morning. Should I be worried or will it be fine in steady rain so long as the USB port is not exposed?
How do you like the Lezyne? (My Wahoo has gone on the fritz again... won't update my routes. Looking for a cheaper alternative that works, sooo....)
 
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stu_kawagoe

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How do you like the Lezyne? (My Wahoo has gone on the fritz again... won't update my routes. Looking for a cheaper alternative that works, sooo....)
I like it but this is my first GPS so I have nothing to compare it to. The website is definitely a bit clunky (the phone app is better) and the unit itself isn't a sleek as a Wahoo or Garmin. I've also been a bit confused by the turn-by-turn navigation a few times, but I think that might be me not understanding the unit properly. What do you mean exactly by 'update my routes'?
 

Karl

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@stu_kawagoe On the Wahoo Bolt, you can create routes on Strava or RWGPS and they load automatically to the Wahoo when it syncs and then you just select the route you want to ride. I tend to tinker with my routes a lot on Strava and, normally, when the Bolt syncs, the changes to the routes are updated on the Bolt. That isn't happening anymore, I suspect because of a recent software update.
 

stu_kawagoe

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@stu_kawagoe On the Wahoo Bolt, you can create routes on Strava or RWGPS and they load automatically to the Wahoo when it syncs and then you just select the route you want to ride. I tend to tinker with my routes a lot on Strava and, normally, when the Bolt syncs, the changes to the routes are updated on the Bolt. That isn't happening anymore, I suspect because of a recent software update.
This is a review of mine and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have that feature:


Also, it's only $150 in the US but ¥22,000 yen here! I got mine from my LBS when it was released in Japan and got no discount. I have since seen it on Amazon for ¥20,000.
 
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pedalist

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Okay so hit the spray, wait a few days and then you can put a hex wrench in the bolt head ahd heating the hex wrench will heat the bolt and the surroiunding aluminium as well. You may lose some paint but nothing that can't be painted over with a small brush and touch paint. Take your time and try not to force things.
I didn't apply more heat than a couple of minutes with a regular lighter would produce. Staff at my LBS suggested using acid in order to desolve the corroison. He said that with corrosion consist of calcium. I've not read/heard of that method, but I'll give it a try I guess, since there's no improvement so far.
 
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luka

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trying to think how to get lower gear ratio on my road bike.

currently I have 11-28 at the back, 52-36 in the front. both RD and FD are Ultegra 8000 series. for a MAMIL like myself, grinding on climbs has become less fun over the years. the setup on the front is cannondale proprietary stuff (BB, cranks, chainrings) so it's best left untouched methinks. I don't think investing in a 50-34 spidering is worth money and effort now (perhaps if/when I wear down the chainrings eventually). I'm thinking if I switched to GRX RD and an 11-34 cassette that should be much better and surely sufficient overall. not sure if the RD can take such gearing though? shimano compatibility has this to say about it:

1579432693013.png

am I reading this right, in that cassette is limited to 34 or less, and chainring to 30 or bigger, i.e. no upper limit on the size of the chainring? if so, that certainly seems like the cheapest and most straightforward way of achieving most of what I need. I don't see anything that suggests front shifting could be jeopardized either in such a setup...
 
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andywood

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trying to think how to get lower gear ratio on my road bike.

currently I have 11-28 at the back, 52-36 in the front. both RD and FD are Ultegra 8000 series. for a MAMIL like myself, grinding on climbs has become less fun over the years. the setup on the front is cannondale proprietary stuff (BB, cranks, chainrings) so it's best left untouched methinks. I don't think investing in a 50-34 spidering is worth money and effort now (perhaps if/when I wear down the chainrings eventually). I'm thinking if I switched to GRX RD and an 11-34 cassette that should be much better and surely sufficient overall. not sure if the RD can take such gearing though? shimano compatibility has this to say about it:

View attachment 19426

am I reading this right, in that cassette is limited to 34 or less, and chainring to 30 or bigger, i.e. no upper limit on the size of the chainring? if so, that certainly seems like the cheapest and most straightforward way of achieving most of what I need. I don't see anything that suggests front shifting could be jeopardized either in such a setup...
I currently have 50/34 11/25 on my cyclocross bike.

I plan to do the Otaki 100km gravel rides this year which have lots of climbing.

I think anything more than a 28 needs a long gauge rear deraillieur and then as big as a cassette as I can get!?

Diet starts tomorrow!

Andy
 

joewein

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The rear derailleur couldn't care less about the size of your chain rings. The two things that matter are

1) the chain wrap, i.e. how much slack the RD can take up between the two extremes of small-small and large-large and
2) the size of the largest sprocket on the cassette, for which the RD needs to have enough reach.

It makes no difference to the RD whether you're running a 52/36 at the front or a 46/30 (same 16T gap).
 
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pedalist

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Heads Up:
I found when I just left the house my sus-fork actually works pretty well. (No need for an upgrade right now.) But the longer it's exposed to cool/cold temperature it turns into a rigid little by little. I guess some service is needed.
So, when I finally got a little bit more time at hands, I'll give it a try and most likely will reach out for some expertise here.
 
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luka

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@andywood yeah 34/25 ratio for off road sucks. GRX rear mech can officially take up to 34T cassette (and I've heard people pushing it to 40), and that should give you 34/34 just by swapping the cassette, chain and RD. I think that's what I'm gonna do on my road bike too (will end up with 34/36 ratio, but pretty similar)

@joewein thanks for that. the GRX RD clears no 2 there, and I'm pretty sure no 1 won't be an issue, what with the clutch and all. I'm not trying anything extreme either. it was designed to take up to 34T with 2x setups, so I think I've now found my easiest way to make 2020 season more appealing on the road bike too. was enjoying the low gears on the gravel bike too much. if I can now have something similar to that, minus 3-4kg in weight, that's like having your cake and eating it too, and losing weight to boot
 

joewein

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@luka, not only the GRX RD, the mid-cage (GS) version of the 105 R7000 and Ultegra R8000 RD also handle a 34T as the biggest sprocket, as does the Tiagra RD-4700 GS (10 speed but same geometry and actually interchangeable with those two).

My Bike Friday is set up with a 105 52/36T mid-compact crank with an RD-R7000 GS and an 11-34 cassette.
 
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luka

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thanks @joewein , I think you just helped me save about 5,000 yen. if that's the case, the RD-R7000 GS is definitely for me. cheapest and only 20g or so heavier than Ultegra. I guess I'll have the same gearing on my cannon chan as you do on your Bike Friday soon.

EDIT: I think I may actually have that RD on my old cyclocross bike, which has been demoted to the chores/city bike now. I'll check that, and if so will simply swap the RDs between the CX bike and cannon chan. another 5,000 yen saved. looks like I might just need a new chain and a cassette!
 

joewein

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I guess I'll have the same gearing on my cannon chan as you do on your Bike Friday soon.
My Bike Friday has 20" (ETRTO 451) wheels that are 25% smaller than a 700C, so my overall gearing is still by that much lower but yes, the rest of the drivetrain will be the same! The 105 RD is very affordable, even more so the 4700. It's great that they handle 34T cassettes (except in triple setups where the 4700 only goes up to 32T).

As an aside, I could have gone for 50/34 + 11-32 instead of 52/36 + 11/34 for roughly the same lowest gear, but the 11-34 cassette will work on 10-speed Freehubs while 11-32 and smaller 11-speed cassettes need a freehub that's 11-speed compatible, which my wheels weren't when I switched from my previous 10-speed setup.
 
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luka

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yeah I remember that extra spacer at the very end of the cassette I almost threw away, because I never saw that before. I guess if you just don't install that, it goes on to 10S freehub eh! you live and learn (useless trivia haha)
 

wabisabikris

Cruising
May 8, 2012
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Adelaide, South Australia
Seeking help from the Boso backroads aficionados.
My Garmin has had a breakdown and I’ve lost all of my GPS points. I’ve done a few of the Boso backroads courses available on RidewithGPS in my visits over the years but I cannot locate a climb that I loved and want to do again. It’s probably between Kamogawa and Katsura and I just remember a tiny, single lane bitumen road (most likely for logging and probably doesn’t even have a number) that snaked through what was probably plantation forest. No traffic or
sign of human life - it was bliss to ride. It was years ago, no idea of the date to look up Strava, didn’t give the uploaded ride a name, don’t have photos - I depended on the GPS points which are now lost. It’s definitely not through Uchiurayama and I haven’t stumbled across it on my recent Boso rides.
Sorry that the info is so vague but does anyone have an idea of the road that I’m talking about?
 

Karl

Faster than molasses
Feb 7, 2011
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Yokohama
I've got 2 sets of Shimano R500 wheels sitting around that still have a lot of life left in them. However, the freehub will not fit an 11 speed road cassette but will fit an 11 speed mtb cassette.

Debating the best option.

1) buy a new Shimano RS100 rear wheel that accepts the 11 speed road cassette (8,000 yen)
2) buy an 11 speed freehub to replace the one on the R500. (about 3,000 yen?)

I've never replaced a freehub before so don't know what to expect. Searching online for Shimano freehubs, there isn't a lot of info on compatibility. So, if I went with option 2 and got a new Shimano 11 spd freehub, does anyone know if I would encounter compatibility issues with my old R500, (or any other issues to be aware of)?
 
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andywood

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I've got 2 sets of Shimano R500 wheels sitting around that still have a lot of life left in them. However, the freehub will not fit an 11 speed road cassette but will fit an 11 speed mtb cassette.

Debating the best option.

1) buy a new Shimano RS100 rear wheel that accepts the 11 speed road cassette (8,000 yen)
2) buy an 11 speed freehub to replace the one on the R500. (about 3,000 yen?)

I've never replaced a freehub before so don't know what to expect. Searching online for Shimano freehubs, there isn't a lot of info on compatibility. So, if I went with option 2 and got a new Shimano 11 spd freehub, does anyone know if I would encounter compatibility issues with my old R500, (or any other issues to be aware of)?
If you are willing to try, you can file down the 10 speed freehub to make an 11 speed cassette fit.

I wouldn't do it myself but seen it done at the.shop here.

Andy
 
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luka

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or just get an 11s MTB cassette for the current wheel by the sound of it?

ah, I only later realized shimano MTB/road were actually not interchangeable. thank goodness for GRX
 
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Karl

Faster than molasses
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If you are willing to try, you can file down the 10 speed freehub to make an 11 speed cassette fit.

I wouldn't do it myself but seen it done at the.shop here.

Andy
I might give that a try. Doesn't look like an 11s freewheel will fit on an old 10s shimano so filing it down may be the only option.