SRAM red compact chainset with shimano 105

leicaman

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Sep 20, 2012
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Asakadai, Saitama
#1
Hi all
I'm slowly trying to upgrade my bike and next on the cards is a new chainset. I currently have an FSA Gossamer pro but was looking to get a SRAM red compact bb30. My bike currently has 105 shifters with a 105 front derailleur. I was wondering if the red would be compatible with my current drivechain. I have a specialized Tarmac elite if that helps.
Thanks
Mark
 

j-sworks

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Feb 5, 2012
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Tokyo
#7
Aren't those cranks ridiculously expensive??
Hey Mark,

Specialized makes everything so if you want to do it properly then I'd suggest looking at the Specialized components as they are made for your bike, and won't look like a tool with crack 'n' fail crank on a Specialized bike;)

Can I ask why you chose to upgrade the "chain set" first? If I was you and planning to upgrade the drivetrain then I would wait and buy a complete set; however if your buying the Sram Red crankset, or chainset as guys on that side of the pond call it, with a power meter then this makes more sense.

While I'm handing out advice that was not asked for; the Tarmac is a great bike and it's a Specialized so it will last forever, but the drivetrain is the weakest point so I'd set my eyes on upgrading that, or upgrade my kit with some new hot weather strip and sunnies because the hot humid summer is coming. If you buy Oakley Radar's then you, me, and Tobias can start a club! Haha
 
Likes: saibot

FarEast

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May 25, 2009
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Yokohama
#8
Just for the record the "drive train" consists of the following part:

Crankset
Front Derailleur
Chain
Rear Derailleur
Cassette
Free wheel

In regards to upgrade route then for simplicity this it the easiest route>

Brake Callipers
Cranks
Shifter/F&R Derailleurs.
 

leicaman

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Sep 20, 2012
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Asakadai, Saitama
#9
Josh, Fareast
Thanks for the info. I wanted to upgrade the chainset (that includes the crank right?) next because it will mean I shed almost 300g which I think is one of the best bangs for your buck. The specialized carbon crank is really nice but it's also 100,000 yen, money I can't justify spending really. The SRAM red is about 43,000 on wiggle. The money I could save would go well towards getting red shifters (but there lies the problem that I would then have to get F&R derailleurs as the red shifters won't work with Shimano).
I suppose I could always get dura ace chain set (It will fit with a bb30 converter yeah?)
Then I could slowly upgrade my Shimano for better Shimano.
All I need now is for Shimano to release a new dura ace so the likes of Owen and Tobias will be selling their Almost brand new DA at a fraction of the cost ;)
 
Likes: saibot

GSAstuto

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Oct 11, 2009
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www.roadfixie.com
#11
Choice of crankset always surprises me. The difference between the heaviest (decent) cranks and the lightest on the market are less than a few hundred grams. And the difference of 'stiffness' or deflection is also less than fractions of a mm or so at force levels that I doubt any of the riders here are capable of applying. Besides the underlying that the bike frame itself will deflect FAR MORE than the cranks ever will! So, what are you really buying into?

1) Stiffness? I think it would be very hard to tell difference at all. Shall we test it?

2) Weight? The moment of inertia is so small at this rotating mass, you wouldn't notice it. And the real significant weight you are moving is your own.

3) Static resistance? The BB itself comes more into play here - and for sure bearings / BB that are mis-aligned, worn or otherwise not providing an optimum axle / bearing component will raise the resistance and cause added energy requirements.

4) Dynamic resistance? This is an extension of (3) and now you have more factors to consider like axle stiffness, precision and bearing design. If the dynamic resistance increases due to higher loads /RPM then you'll lose watts going into the wheel.

5) Chain Rings? Cheaper chain rings may have out of round / wobble or imperfections that cause small increases in chain resistance. Roadbikes are less affected than trackbikes by far because chain tension is much lighter and a derailler allows the chain to stay at a more or less constant tension regardless of these imperfections. Some chainrings claim to reduce friction - but if they are machined according to standards, not sure how this is accomplished because most of the friction is in the chain linkage itself, not the gear - unless the gear is loaded with chain sucking gunk.

6) Shifting? Differing pin / ramps teeth profile, etc , may help to achieve a faster and more precise chain transfer than simply 'de-railing' a straight chain off a cog. I think every mfg today incorporates ramps and pins and profiling to accomplish good shifting characteristics. And these are on nearly every model they make.

7) Durability / reliability. Here is where I think the real focus lies. Cause I've seen alot of broken , cracked and damaged cranksets. And it didn't really seem to matter the mfg or price. Though some mfg's seem to fare worse (or better) than others.

8) Bling. Somewhat intangible - however you know it when you see it. If that's an important factor and get's you up the hill quicker (or sprint line faster) then definitely invest into it!

I'm riding an Omnium (track), 1980's Campy SR, new Campy Record, Shimano DA and Shimano CX (Ultegra). Honestly, I can't tell the difference in performance between ANY of them. My 1980's Campy with modern HG chain and 10sp wheel with completely incorrect chainline actually shifts and rides as smooth as my current Bridgestone Pro bike with all Campy running gear. And my Ti bike with the CX crankset, Microshift 'BONA' shifters, and Shimano Ultegra cassette also shift and ride fine with no apparent difference (to me) in terms of stiffness or efficiency.

I'd love to see any test data on chainset efficiency - the last stuff I was able to dig up was dated in the early 2000's.
 
Likes: Sikochi
Sep 2, 2009
5
0
0
#13
At least I'm winning something :)
Haha, that is slightly better. :)

Having bent or snapped pretty much every crank I have ever ridden;

-Specialized StongArm. Bent.
-Shimano LX. Bent.
-Shimano XT. Bent
-Profile Race. Snapped.
-Profile SS. Flared crank arm spline.
-Primo PowerBite. Stripped pedal thread.
-G-Sport Wombolt. Snapped.
-Around 50 one-piece BMX cranks.
-Shimano 105. Warped spider.

The only cranks I have not caused any damage to are G-Sport Twombolt, G-Sport Thunderbolt, Middleburn RS7, Shimano DuraAce and now the Cannondale SiSL2.

These unbusted ones are all top end cranks, so the reason I spend so much money on cranks is less about their inherent stiffness, and how many milliseconds of time they are going to give me (because I am currently not racing and it doesn't matter) and more about how unshaggable they are going to be.

This toughness brings along the other advantages of top end cranks, which I very much do enjoy in a 'suits you sir' manner, and I would be lying if I said I didn't get a kick out of how lush they are.
 

leicaman

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Sep 20, 2012
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Asakadai, Saitama
#14
GsAstuto, thanks for the indepth response. I was mainly wanting to change chainset to drop a bit of weight. My current chainset weighs around 850g and the red is around 550g. I'm sure I probably won't feel much difference (if any) but if I want to drop weight on my bike then I guess every little helps. I must admit I'm also a little partial to a bit of bling from time to time.
My first upgrade was the wheels which I love but thought the chainset would be the easiest to drop a chunk of weight next. Or do I buy new summerwear like Josh suggests? I'm sure I'd go much faster up those hills with the latest Rapha top/shorts.
 
Sep 2, 2009
5
0
0
#15
Get the SRAM red chainset. I have been speaking to the kit supplier today and we are on the brink of launching some very nice gear for you. :)
 
Likes: leicaman

leicaman

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Sep 20, 2012
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Asakadai, Saitama
#16
Hey Mark,

Specialized makes everything so if you want to do it properly then I'd suggest looking at the Specialized components as they are made for your bike, and won't look like a tool with crack 'n' fail crank on a Specialized bike;)

Can I ask why you chose to upgrade the "chain set" first? If I was you and planning to upgrade the drivetrain then I would wait and buy a complete set; however if your buying the Sram Red crankset, or chainset as guys on that side of the pond call it, with a power meter then this makes more sense.

While I'm handing out advice that was not asked for; the Tarmac is a great bike and it's a Specialized so it will last forever, but the drivetrain is the weakest point so I'd set my eyes on upgrading that, or upgrade my kit with some new hot weather strip and sunnies because the hot humid summer is coming. If you buy Oakley Radar's then you, me, and Tobias can start a club! Haha
Josh, I don't think I could bring myself to splash out on another pair of Oakley. My last four pairs have all lost their coating on the lenses. Admittedly it has taken a number of years for the coating to come off.
Having said all of this, I was so close to buying a pair of split jackets last weekend.
 

saibot

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May 29, 2012
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Taito
#18
Buy the SRAM Red crank! It's all about weight and bling mate!

(Or buy my 2012 FSA bb30 SL-K Light Standard cranks, 605grams. 1man only! You're too strong for compact anyway ;-) )
 
Likes: OwenJames