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SIDI Heel Pad replacement???


Maximum Pace
Jan 14, 2007

Got some new pads yesterday for only 650 yen at my SEO....

But, the screws on the current pads are pretty much pebble damaged to the extent that a screw driver has the same effect as a sausage.

How do I get these old screws out?

I don't want to take a drill to it if possible...

This may be like the old seat post removal thread....

I'M thinking of cutting the old rubber pads off with a paper knife and then a pair of pliers.
Edo, I'm gonna need these soon. Let me know how you get those screws out as I was wondering the same thing:confused:
Use a small hack saw and cut a groove through the screw. You`ll also cut into yhe heel pad but you are going to throw it away. Then use a minus driver to unscrew.
Exactly what zenbiker suggests, I did mine a few weeks ago and used a dremel to cut a groove.
How do I get these old screws out?

I don't want to take a drill to it if possible...

Cutting the pads off, applying some penetrating oil, and then turning the screw with pliers will probably work fine. But if the head snaps off with whatever method you try...

Tapered screw/bolt removal drill bit.

While we're on the topic of SIDI shoes, does anyone else have pain from their cleats? I know Sergey has been having trouble with this too. Only my right foot seems to get sore, almost like it's being bruised by the cleats. I've tried moving it around but with no success so far. Any ideas would be much appreciated:D
The straight forward approach

I have my second pair of black SIDI shoes (one of the cheapest models, without rachet) and I am very happy with them. The old version didn't had a cut-out in the heel pad so it tended to rotate after a while. The new version has a cut-out now so this problem is fixed. They fit well the shape of my feet.

I exchanged the heel pads two or three times and every time the screw head was in such poor state, that I couldn't apply a screw driver. As I have no special tools, no time and no patience, I just drove a minus driver below the heel pad and lifted it up (after all it's plastic and not elastic). Then with brute force and a pair of pliers I removed it. This leaves the screw in place, but as the down side of the screw head is in the air (as opposed to being pressed against the heel pad previously). It is very easy to turn it with the help of the pliers. This works very well and fast and didn't damaged my shoes.

A simple solution, but very effective. Try, if you have the courage.
First thing to check especially with SIDI shoes is "do you actually have the right size?"

SIDI's come in standard and wide fit as well as half sizes and this is because of the unique fitting system of the shoes. The best thing you can do is get properly fitted by a SIDI retailer as they have the precise measuring equipment for SIDI shoes. If you require a wide type, but are riding a standard fit you will have discomfort while riding due to the limited flex and stretch in SIDI shoes as they are designed for racing in mind and offer maximum power output.

If you have the correct sized shoe the next step is: "Is the cleat correctly positioned?"

I know you've been playing around with the setting but correct cleat position is something a lot of people get wrong and is the main cause of pains in the feet, ankle and knees when riding.

The starting point for positioning of the cleat is to make sure the ankle of the pedal runs through two points of the foot.

As seen from the image the doweling runs through the widest area of the foot, this will give a slight "Toe in – heel out" position and is considered the "Start Point" for Cleat fitting.


It will be a little difficult to know where those points are once you have the shoes on, so I suggest taping 1 yen coins to your feet at those locations as they can be felt through the fabric of the shoes.


Once you have identified where the centre line is on your foot you'll need to put the shoe on and position the cleat so it runs through that line, there are centralisation lines marked on the cleats (Each cleat type will have a different markers ).

Tighten them up in accordance with the manual, as over tightening of the cleats can warp the sole of the shoe and cause discomfort or actually damage the cleat anchors and may result in them being pulled through the actual sole of the shoe; many carbon soled shoes will have an Nm rating (SIDI's are 4 Nm per bolt.

I would also suggest marking the sole of the shoe where your centre line is in accordance with the axle as this will save time later when making adjustments or replacing cleats.

Once they are tightened go for a ride, take an Allen key with you in case you need to slightly modify during the ride as you'll know straight away if things aren't right. If you find the riding position of the cleat comfortable then leave the cleats and go for a long ride with variable terrain as different saddle positions and riding techniques will highlight where cleat adjustments are required.

Again this is a trial and error and regardless of what is said it's a process that can take weeks to perfect as everyone's ergonomics are different.

Once you have found that perfect placement again it's time to mark the sole of the shoe. I used a white Tamiya paint pen used for models as this doesn't damage the shoe and is resistant to rain and other climatic conditions. Do not score lines on carbon soles as this will damage the weave and result in failure of the shoe.
feet comfort

Excellent advice there James. Getting your cleat set up right is really important. I find I don't have to mark mine though as when I take the cleat off, there is a nice shiny cleat shape on the sole of my shoes (time for some new shoes?)

Mike, is the pain you are experiencing on the ball of your foot? I used to suffer from this on long rides with my SIDIs too. In the 300km Tokyo~Itoigawa I was often in agony for the last 50 km or so…

If you think your cleats are set up well but are still experiencing pain, I would recommend getting some fitted insoles. There are a various brands out there. The ones I use are "sidas" and are molded to the shape of your foot.


You need to go to an authorized dealer who will take a mold of your feat and shape the insoles in an oven. I find them to be really good. They are also transferable to other shoes if you run etc.

The other thing to consider is how tight your shoes are. As the weather gets warmer your feet will be larger so you should be slackening them more at this time of year than during winter. Also your feet will swell as you ride so you should be loosening them as your ride progresses. It's good practice to loosen up your shoes for descents and tighten them up for climbs. Stretch your toes on the descents too to keep the circulation going.

There's only one thing worse than sore feet and that's a sore backside!

Hope these ideas help,

Cheers Andy.... also good advice,

Actually I'm the oppersite....first 5- 10km and my feet hurt...then after that its like a glove and I also playing with the settings. I find the central fasterner is the crux in comfort...too tight and I get aches too loose and the same again.

Aoyama-san of Sports Bike HiRoad in tokyo is an authorised dealer of that brand and he knows his stuff, he is also fluent in English which really helps. Although he can be a little Otaku when it comes to the process.

But great, bloke great service!

Sport Bikes HiRoad
Hiroyasu Aoyama
4-10-4, Koyama, Shinagawa-ku,
Sport Bikes HiRoad
Tokyo, 142-0062

Phone: 03-6413-7168

Failing all of these you may want to take a look at this especailly rule #5. :D Mike I think you'll especailly like the video linked off it.


James and Andy, thanks for the great advice. I'll try adjustments sugested by James and if the pain persists I'll give the insoles a go. Hopefully I can get it sorted out as it really starts aching on long rides. I could hardly walk after the 3 peaks ride. I was expecting a massive bruise on the ball of my right foot but by Sunday it was fine again.
Mike.... try loosening the cleats as the pain on the ball of the foot sounds like you may have the fixing bolts way to tight and they are pushing up into the soles of the shoes!

It's a common mistake as many people are worried about the cleats slipping, if you put the slip pad in (Looks like sandpaper with an adhesive backing) you won't have any issues.
Just picked up a much needed hacksaw on the way home...

Will try that option first... If it fails I'll go for the hack job....

A bit of lubricant first may be a good idea...
Sorry to hijack your thread Edo, but James I've done the one yen trick and made sure not to tighten the cleats too much. As it turns out I needed to move them quite a bit as my right foot is a bit smaller than my left. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks mate:D
The hacksaw option worked like a charm...

The first one I was not even centre with my cut...
One drop of oil. And a quarter twist of the screw driver and it came out easily.
The second one I did perfect center...
Had to nip off the plastic teeth under the new heel caps as my old ones didn't have them...
some pics and a small tutorial on my blog...

Thanks for the advice.

Moral of the story.

Hacksaws are quicker than hacking.
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James, went for a long ride yesterday and the right cleat felt much better. Hardly any pain at all so thanks for the advice. Today Sir James you are Mr. Mastermind;)
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