Chuck
Maximum Pace
- Feb 7, 2011
- 1,617
- 1,877
@kiwisimon Yes. I have a more upright position. It's a tradeoff. More stretched out and hands and back start to feel it. I'm old. Saddle is just off horizontal with the front tilted slightly downward.
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It might be a good way to go. OTOH, something about the Ritchey tubing, but on both my Outback and Road Logic, I've had to really use a lot of torque to keep the seatpost from slipping down. On the Outback I even used LocTite. So, a carbon seatpost is probably a non starter.@Chuck
Do you have a carbon seat post?
I have one on my XC hard tail and the comfort is amazing. Unless I on really rough terrain, my bum is super comfortable.
wow, shouldn't need loctite on a seatclamp.On the Outback I even used LocTite.
Tried it. It didn't have the same effect on metal to metal surfaces as it had on carbon to metal. Loctite was my last hope. It worked...maybe a little too well. But at least my seatpost stays put.carbon paste works well as long as all the excess grease has been wiped off the tube and post.
I get friction points forward of the sit bones after a while. Worse in summer with sweat.is your bum soft bits tender from rubbing or the whole area just tired from sitting?
I hate core work...but I know, I know.... I guess I'm hoping I can just buy some kind of gadget that will make it so I don't have to do core work. Did I mention I hate core work?I'm old too but some core muscle work can help a lot.
bum butter and try a variety of saddles. it's counter intuitive but a hard short nose saddle may be the ticket. Padded saddles sometimes create more friction.I get friction points forward of the sit bones after a while. Worse in summer with sweat.
my standard core exercise is getting off the floor to go to the fridge for another cold drink..I hate core work...but I know, I know.... I guess I'm hoping I can just buy some kind of gadget that will make it so I don't have to do core work. Did I mention I hate core work?
Yeah. I've tried many different saddles. Padded were the worst. I never ride without the chamois creme. Wouldn't be prudent.bum butter and try a variety of saddles. it's counter intuitive but a hard short nose saddle may be the ticket. Padded saddles sometimes create more friction.
Works for me!my standard core exercise is getting off the floor to go to the fridge for another cold drink..
I think you are throwing out the baby with the bath water (just like with hydraulic disc brakes). I have had problems with slipping seat posts on my previous mountain bike: aluminum frame and aluminum seat post. The issue is always the same, the components aren't manufactured to the proper tolerances — that's the issue with Ritchey (tubing) it would seem. If you have to use LocTite on a frame to prevent seat post slippage, in my book that is grounds to return the frame under warranty. At worst you should need some carbon paste to prevent slippage.It might be a good way to go. OTOH, something about the Ritchey tubing, but on both my Outback and Road Logic, I've had to really use a lot of torque to keep the seatpost from slipping down. On the Outback I even used LocTite. So, a carbon seatpost is probably a non starter.
Carbon paste does work on metal-to-metal interfaces. It was one component in keeping seat post creep in check with my previous mountain bike. But if you had to use LocTite to keep your seat post in place, the problem isn't that carbon paste doesn't work as well for metal-to-metal interfaces.Tried it. It didn't have the same effect on metal to metal surfaces as it had on carbon to metal. Loctite was my last hope. It worked...maybe a little too well. But at least my seatpost stays put.
The older you get, the more important it is to take care of your core muscles.I hate core work...but I know, I know.... I guess I'm hoping I can just buy some kind of gadget that will make it so I don't have to do core work. Did I mention I hate core work?
I meant to say that a carbon seat post is a good idea (I'm aware of the added flex and compliance it gives), except in this case, the clamp requires too much torque to stop any slipping. IOW, not a good situation for a carbon post. I haven't "thrown it out" as an option on any other bike, just this one. Same with hydraulic brakes. Haven't "thrown it out" either. Maybe someday I'll change over to hydraulics but I just prefer mechanicals...or at least they work for me and my modest needs. To each their own.I think you are throwing out the baby with the bath water (just like with hydraulic disc brakes).
I agree...this is probably caused by the seat tube being slightly too large. Not something that I was going to bother returning the frame for as long as I could stop the slipping.I have had problems with slipping seat posts on my previous mountain bike: aluminum frame and aluminum seat post. The issue is always the same, the components aren't manufactured to the proper tolerances — that's the issue with Ritchey (tubing) it would seem.
As I said, I tried carbon paste and it didn't do the trick. Glad it worked for you though. LocTite was my last option and, yeah, not a good solution, but a solution all the same. It worked.Carbon paste does work on metal-to-metal interfaces. I was one component in keeping seat post creep in check with my previous mountain bike. But if you had to use LocTite to keep your seat post in place, the problem isn't that carbon paste doesn't work as well for metal-to-metal interfaces.
Agreed. I've actually started doing some weight training (which I'm starting to like) and include a bit of core work...(even though I hate it).The older you get, the more important it is to take care of your core muscles.
But in the end it is an issue with your frame, and IMHO it is not acceptable. Who knows what other parts of your frame are out of spec? I think you bought the frame itself, and it wasn't cheap. IMHO that's unacceptable for an expensive frame. But you do you.Not something that I was going to bother returning the frame for as long as I could stop the slipping.
Well, it sort of worked: I would still have to push the quick release lever with so much force, it'd be painful and leave marks on my hands. I'd be very reluctant to change seat height (something extremely common in mountain biking, especially in times before dropper posts were common.) Thing is, I never lived in Munich for long enough again to make me consider a swap under warranty.As I said, I tried carbon paste and it didn't do the trick. Glad it worked for you though. LocTite was my last option and, yeah, not a good solution, but a solution all the same. It worked.
I'd be very reluctant and worried to use LocTite for the seat post. Aren't you worried you will never be able to move and remove the seat post?LocTite was my last option and, yeah, not a good solution, but a solution all the same. It worked.
Ritchey uses the type of clamp that is located at the top of the seat stays. I don't think a regular clamp that sits on the top of the seat tube would work....would it?I am not endorsing this specific clamp, but I had an issue of slipping with one bike and used a two bolt clamp to quickly solve my issue.
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I would post the link here, but it keeps thinking it is media and the link doesn't work.
Why wouldn't it? As far as I can tell, you'd only need to install the smaller clamp. As long as the small clamp remains in place, your seat post couldn't slip any further. No? That solution certainly seems more sensible than LocTite. Plus, you'd always know how far you'd have to insert your seat post.I don't think a regular clamp that sits on the top of the seat tube would work....would it?
Yes. It's a new Thomson.what make is that grooved seatpost? Thomson?
they are known to slip a lot as the exposed ridges get worn down fairly quickly.
that would explain it. your bike is fine.Yes. It's a new Thomson.
I'll change out the seat post and see what happens.that would explain it. your bike is fine.
write to Thomson CS and ask for a solution. You should never have to loctite in a seatpost.
maybe they have a better fix.