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Ride SAT, June 1st - Arima-toge & Jyomine

Good ride today, except for the bad parts :)
Feel these rides are doing wonders for my endurance lately.
Sorry you had to bail Aron, but at least you got some new bar plugs ;)

Thanks again Pete and everyone!
 
Another great ride in the mountains.
Thank you Pete for leading and everyone else for helping to keep my bike on the road.
New wheels next time so less (no?) chance of spoke problems.
 
Wicked. Get some Vittoria Open Corsa CX tyres for them and you will be flying.
 
Couple of pics from an eventful ride

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Probably not many better spots to have your third puncture of the day, eh leicaman ?

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I was very close it seems. This is the aftermath of my crash. As Pete says, "Do your braking before the turn!"

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The wife asked me if, after all that, I'll be doing it again...

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No pics of dick on the floor, a real shame 'cos there was some real talent in those breadcrumbs GrantT
 
I'm sure you know this already but it is worth getting some Australian money (5,10,20$ bill) and keeping it in your kit. It's plastic, very thin and very strong, perfect for making a sleeve to cover the tube in case of a slashed tyre.

Cheers for the info. I had heard about cardboard being used but never Aussie dollars. Will have to get hold of a $5 bill.

Wicked. Get some Vittoria Open Corsa CX tyres for them and you will be flying.
GrantT I have some great specialized turbo elites you can have. They ahve a special added feature whereby they explode your inner tube every 1 km of so. I'll let you have them for nowt :)

Probably not many better spots to have your third puncture of the day, eh leicaman ? GrantT
I chose the locations carefully before decided to have a puncture


Changed both front and rear tyres to conti 4000s last night so I'm hoping I won't be getting reoccuring exploding inner tubes now.
 
OwenJames - Yes, 100% will be on the bike by next weekend.

It may or may not be for you, but if your going get the Ultegra wheels, great wheels BTW, then I would suggest going tubeless and getting some IRC RBCC or IRC X-Guards. Tobias and I both use IRC tubeless and love them!! See HERE. Either option is 6350yen at Nalsima Friend.
 
It may or may not be for you, but if your going get the Ultegra wheels, great wheels BTW, then I would suggest going tubeless and getting some IRC RBCC or IRC X-Guards. Tobias and I both use IRC tubeless and love them!! See HERE. Either option is 6350yen at Nalsima Friend.

While tubeless might be great, it's hard to join the club. I spent like 5hrs since yesterday and still didn't get one tire to seal. Floor pump? Forget it! I have been to the nearest gas station like six times already. Had to scrap my cx adventure.
I'm trying to use serfas drifter tires on alpha 340 wheels. The new Hutchinson Secteur 28C look tempting too, but are 1man a tire.
 
While tubeless might be great, it's hard to join the club. I spent like 5hrs since yesterday and still didn't get one tire to seal. Floor pump? Forget it! I have been to the nearest gas station like six times already. Had to scrap my cx adventure.
I'm trying to use serfas drifter tires on alpha 340 wheels. The new Hutchinson Secteur 28C look tempting too, but are 1man a tire.

With the exception of trying once on a dirty rim while outside in the dead of winter, I've always been able to get my tubeless tires to inflate and seat with a floor pump, almost always on the first try. Technique is key... or, maybe I've just been lucky. ;)

I should clarify that my first time trying to install tubeless tires was very much like Gunnar describes, extremely frustrating!! However, once I learned proper technique it's been a peace of piss as they say.
 
With the exception of trying once on a dirty rim while outside in the dead of winter, I've always been able to get my tubeless tires to inflate and seat with a floor pump, almost always on the first try. Technique is key... or, maybe I've just been lucky. ;)

I should clarify that my first time trying to install tubeless tires was very much like Gunnar describes, extremely frustrating!! However, once I learned proper technique it's been a peace of piss as they say.

I'm begging you, enlighten me. Preinflated with a tube, soapy water, put my hands on where the air leaks, I'm close to giving up or buying a compressor. But even at the gas station it took 30mins, the one and only time the tire sat.
 
I'm begging you, enlighten me. Preinflated with a tube, soapy water, put my hands on where the air leaks, I'm close to giving up or buying a compressor. But even at the gas station it took 30mins, the one and only time the tire sat.

The keys are are:
  1. getting the bead down all the way down in the wheel and around and past the rubber gasket of the valve
  2. getting the rest of the bead into the deepest part of the center of the rim pinching it together
  3. using non-ammonia based soapy water to help the tire slide out from the center to the wall
#1 is where most people fail, IMHO. The way that I do that is once I have the tire on the wheel, I partially unscrew the valve and push it up into the center well of the tire. Then once the bead is all the way down as deep as it can go in the wheel, pull the valve back outward and tighten it up again. This will lock that part of the bead between the rubber gasket of the valve and the inner wall of the wheel where it eventually will seat. Since using this technique with the one exception noted above, I've been able to get the tire to seat with my Topeak Blow Joe floor pump nearly every time on the first attempt.

If all else fails use the same technique but inflate with CO2. Just be aware that CO2 and sealant don't play well together. If you want to use sealant, which I definitely recommend, then wait a while, let the CO2 back out, slowly if necessary so the bead will stay seated, inject the sealant through the valve, and re-inflate with floor pump. This time it'll be very easy because the bead is already seated. Regarding sealant, while I've used Stan's in the past, CaffeLatex is a better choice, IMHO. It's ammonia free, and you can inject it through the valve. You can't do that with Stan's.
 
Thanks a lot for sharing the knowledge.
There's a lot of things different from the Stan's manual. For example putting the tire in the inner channel first. I'm excited to try this out.

But, like you said other products seem to be superior to Stan's, for which you always have to remove the valve core to put sealant in.
 
Thanks a lot for sharing the knowledge.
There's a lot of things different from the Stan's manual. For example putting the tire in the inner channel first. I'm excited to try this out.

But, like you said other products seem to be superior to Stan's, for which you always have to remove the valve core to put sealant in.

No worries! Trust me when I tell you that I know all about he frustration that you have been experiencing, been there and done that! I completely wore my arms out pumping in vain like a mad man for 4-5 hours when I first tried installing my tubeless tires. Stick with it. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. And, it's worth repeating that if you get tired/frustrated the CO2 method couldn't be easier or faster. It's a lot more effective than the gas station method due to the much quicker blast of high pressure gas. Good luck!
 
Pete speaks the truth! The tyre beads have got to be down in the central well of the rim.
I bought a compressor anyway - just a small beastie from Amazon. It makes inflating the tyres very easy.
There are some reports of Stans sealant causing corrosion on the newer Shimano wheel sets that don't have the black anodised inner rim; be careful.
 
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