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Tech Removing rear wheel from a commuter bicycle


Feb 12, 2024
Hello, I'm a complete beginner in this field and I just use my bicycle to commute. My rear wheel got punctured and I need to inspect the inner tube. I removed the tire and the inner tube from the rim but it seems that I need to completely remove the wheel from the bike otherwise I can't proceed with the inspection. I tried using a wrench but I can't get the two main bolts to turn even a millimeter. I tried removing some screws first and I also disconnected the rear brake but that didn't seem to help. The mechanism circled in red reads as follows: "Lubrication is forbidden. Conduct an inspection every year where you bought the bicycle". I don't think it has anything to do with my problem but it makes me think that I'm not supposed to do this myself but I'm in Japan and going to the repairer is troublesome for a series of reasons so I don't have a choice. Also, the chain is protected by a metal cover, and overall removing the rear wheel seems such a hassle. I searched on YouTube but all the bicycles shown in the videos were different and removing the rear wheel seemed easier. I read the manual in Japanese and I also searched the web but I don't even know how to point out what kind of bicycle I have. It's obvious to me that it is just a bicycle for commuting and nothing like a mountain bike or the like. It was cheap and it's a nice bicycle but it has a load of cranky trash on the rear part that is making me regret not having bought a slimmer and plainer mountain bike. Maybe I'm not rotating the bolts with enough strength but that's all I can do unless I buy a longer wrench to add momentum. Do you have anything to suggest?

First, since you have the tire and tube off like that, if at all possible find the leak/puncture and patch the tube without taking the wheel off. Pump up the tube and go around it all, feeling and listening for the puncture. Keep re-pumping up the tube if it goes down while you're looking.

To go further (if you haven't found it), still without removing the wheel, loosen the stem (where you pump the air in) and pull it out of the rim. Then gather and pull most of the tube out away from the bike, pump it up again, and use a small pan of water to look for the leak--of course do that in sections--do one part, pull the tube around a little more, do the next part, and repeat.

Taking apart/off the back wheel, and then (especially) getting everything back on and adjusted properly is a pretty difficult job, even if you have the tools and someone to help.

Be prepared to give up and take it to a shop, perhaps where you bought it. Yeah, you'll have to get the tube and tire back on and walk it to wherever that is, and it'll cost money and may take a day or so. But you will have at least tried to a reasonable degree before that.
I don't even know how to point out what kind of bicycle I have
I can guess with 80% certainty. For complete certainty, let's see a photo of the whole bike.

(A wide variety of bikes are regularly used for commuting, so saying that it's for commuting really doesn't help.)
you can do it and check things here
if you need a new tire or tube,take it to a local bike shop.
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80% was too low. It's hard to believe that this is anything other than a ママチャリ, or in English a "step-through". Not a species of bike that I'd want to ride more than a couple of kilometres, but I did once (in Bilbao) ride a rented step-through 45 km.
Thank you everybody for your kind answers. I did as jdd suggested and I managed to repair the inner tube. Before doing that I also removed the chain of the bike foolishly but that is another problem for another post...
EDIT: by the way, this is the bike.

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@Valerio27 yes, it's a mamachari, or "step-through".

On the seatpost (the black metal tube connecting the seat tube of the frame and the saddle) there is (or there should be) an indicator of how little it's safe to leave within the seatpost. Take the indication seriously. If you find yourself wishing for a longer seatpost, the good news is that they're available and cheap. (But NB they come in different diameters, very close to each other. So "about 27 mm" isn't good enough: 26.8, 27.0, and 27.2 mm are all commonly used and no they're not interchangeable.)
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