Removing freebody

Bartek

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Jun 28, 2010
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Chchibu
ewaandbart.webtobiz.net
#1
Yesterday, I was forced to abandon the ride to Nichitsu ghost town with Pete and others because of the rear wheel problem. Without any prior experience, i decided to take the hub appart and try to fix the problem as I need the bicycle to get to work tomorrow. I have taken the axle out and removed the loose bearing balls on both sides and any removable part except for the freebody. I know there must be a trick to removing it somehow, but I seem to be unable to do it. Could anyone please tell me what the trick is.

Thanks,

Bart

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StuInTokyo

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Dec 3, 2010
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#2
There is a tool that you need, it fits inside to the bearing race area, you can see two notches in that edges of the bearing race.

View attachment 1116

If you need to take that off, you have some real problems! In fact the race there looks in bad shape, what did the grease and ball bearings look like???
Might be time for a new wheel! :eek:

I'd be checking the front wheel bearings too!
 

DeltaForce

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Sep 17, 2011
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Toki, Gifu
#3
If you want to attempt to repair the existing freehub body, leave it on the wheel as you'll need the leverage.

To get into the freehub internal mechanism; the ball race you have taken the balls out of is also the nut that holds everything together. There is a special tool that fits into it so that you can unscrew it, but I have used a big screw driver as a punch with a hammer to losen it. Then you can unscrew it by hand. Now hundreds of tiny ball bearings will fall out and you will see the sorry state of your pawls. I suppose the pawls are broken or the 'C' spring is broken.

I would be thinking of alternate transport for work though.

Dave
 

zenbiker

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Mar 4, 2008
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Chofu
#4
I find a hammer, the largest you can find, and a chisel will usually remove most parts.......

However, if you want to put the parts back together, it's probably best to use a less aggressive method.:eek:
 

Bartek

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Jun 28, 2010
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Chchibu
ewaandbart.webtobiz.net
#5
Thanks guys. I also think the new wheel is a better option. And I honestly thinks that something (pawls?) broke inside. It sounded like it at least. At present the blocking mechanism inside engages more often than before. I did spray a lot the japanese version of WD-40 and so the grease inside disolved.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I will try to open it even if it is only to see what it looks like inside for a future reference. I think it is time to give Tim a call to see what he can in terms of the new wheels. I do need a new set anyway.

Cheers,

Bart
 

DeltaForce

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Sep 17, 2011
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Toki, Gifu
#7
If the pawls and spring are not actually broken, and the spring has enough spring left to force the pawls out, and your bicycle is the only way to get to work etc, you might re-assemle it all. Use a little grease in the ball races to 'stick' the ball bearings to during re-assembly. You only want a faint smearing on the pawls etc. Your punch and hammer will be fine for 'final re-assembly' of the freehub.

From experience with repairing those Shimano hubs, depending on the state of the spring and pawls, you could actually ride this repair quite a while longer. But of course, it all needs replacing asap.

Dave
 

Yamabushi

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Jun 1, 2010
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Tokyo (Nezu)
fudoushin.com
#8
Yesterday, I was forced to abandon the ride to Nichitsu ghost town with Pete and others because of the rear wheel problem. Without any prior experience, i decided to take the hub appart and try to fix the problem as I need the bicycle to get to work tomorrow. I have taken the axle out and removed the loose bearing balls on both sides and any removable part except for the freebody. I know there must be a trick to removing it somehow, but I seem to be unable to do it. Could anyone please tell me what the trick is.

Thanks,

Bart

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WOW, that looks pretty bad! Now we can see clearly why you had to abandon! Not that these couldn't be rehabbed and ridden, but IMHO, it's time for a new wheelset!
 

GSAstuto

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Oct 11, 2009
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tokyo
www.roadfixie.com
#9
What wheelset is that? Shimano xxxxx?? For sure the bearing races are shot. If it's higher level than say RS20, maybe worth a fix. Otherwise - I'd just donate it to the recycle bin and replace with a WHR-500 which is about 6000 yen anywhere. Freebody, axle, bearing, etc will cost around 3000 yen + labor. So - it's just not worth it on most of these wheels to repair unless they are Ultegra / 105 level or above.
 

Bartek

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Jun 28, 2010
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Chchibu
ewaandbart.webtobiz.net
#10
Yes, it's bad. I have never opened it before until now. It's been 2 and a half years of riding and the wheels are stock wheels that came with this model of Trek. They are pretty cheap actually and I am surprised that they withstood so much abuse for such a long time.

Well, I have no choice anymore but to get a new set. After an attempt of taking the freehub body off with a screwdriver and a hammer (a method that is preferred by many including me), the freehub body is no longer at the 90 degree angle to the wheel :eek:uch: There is a big wobble when I spin the wheel now and needless to say I need a new set. An attempt to salvage and old wheel and have it as a spare has failed :(

Thanks guys for the advice. It helped a lot.