casualguy939
Cruising
- Jul 10, 2023
- 45
- 49
Not sure where to start really because the world of recumbents is so huge with numerous classes that at first seems difficult to get an idea of just how many there are. Throw in that there are so few recumbents in public compared with upright, or DF (diamond frame) bikes that it isn't easy to put them into their proper category.
First off, I am not that good of a writer, and I am not very organized, so I am going to keep it short and sweet in explaining recumbents how I understand them, and with enough of the basics that I hope gives a solid base to build from.
Types (From slowest to fastest, and 2-4 wheels)
Touring - Seat angles from about 30-50 degrees. Plenty of storage capacity. Probably the easiest kind to learn on because of the more upright sitting position. Because of the sitting position creating a good hip angle, these are also good at climbing. In stripped down form and aero wheels they are very fast, and in some cases might be just as aero (or more) as a rider on a TT bike. Some can handle trails with wider tire capability, and there are quite a few trikes being manufactured for this.
This bike is a RWD Azub, with a 26"/20" wheel set.
Racing Recumbents - There are 2 main types. High, and low racers. In general these are classified as how high your butt is off the ground, and how high your BB (Bottom Bracket) is in relation to your seat height. This relation of BB height and seat height is important aerodynamically because if you can get your torso to pass through the hole that your feet are punching in the air you will be more efficient. Feet too high or low and it is a trade-off in speed or handling. There are racing trikes too.
The first pic is my Cruzbike V20, with dual 700c wheels and a 14L-16L rear storage bag. It is a FWD, MBB (moving Bottom Bracket) high racer. I can get my toes on the ground without sitting up.
This is a VeloKraft Nocom, which is a RWD Low Racer. You can put your hand on the ground. Very fast bike mainly for straight line rides, but as you can see, there is chain rub on the front wheel that happens in low speed turns. Maybe heel strike in turns also depending on your cleat placement and shoe size. Neither of those is an issue at speed since you lean the bike to turn instead of turning the wheel. In climbs it has an advantage of better grip on the drive wheel but a weight penalty in a very long chain. On the flats, the weight only matters in acceleration.
This is a FWD Low Racer. The pros and cons are opposite of the RWD VeloKraft above. Less chain weight, but more possibility of front wheel slip in climbs. Also you have to carry 2 different sizes of tubes.
Partially Faired and Faired Recumbents - Various sizes and styles of tail boxes on the rear, or nose cones on the front that improve aerodynamics, and sometimes also serves as storage. Not something we see except online so they may look kind of silly, but as far as efficiency is concerned, they don't seem like they are human powered.
This is a fully faired Lightning F-40. It has a spandex style covering that can be removed easily.
This is a partially faired Birk
Velomobiles - 3 or 4 wheels with a full body fairing. Some include a hood that covers the riders head, making it not only faster, but the rider is virtually dry in rain. Quite a few companies are making them now, and they are not only efficient, their cost reflects it.
This one is a Bulk, a new company with what seems to be the most aero velomobile available now.
Streamliners - Similar to Velomobiles, but only 2 wheels. Current World Record is 144kph (almost 90mph) under the rider's own power. Some are 1-trick ponies that only do 1 thing, which go very fast in a straight line, but not all of them are purpose built for Battle Mountain runs. Virtually all of them are one-off custom garage builds, but years ago there were a few that were produced in limited numbers.
Multi-World Champ Steve Slade's Beano (kevlar/carbon weave) and Russell Bridge's Snoopy (carbon fiber), 2 custom made circuit racers that lap almost everyone except the strongest velomobile riders.
My personal favorite is the Coyote, and I thought I was going to be able to get the molds for it, but the guy who offered me the molds gave them to someone else suddenly when I was arranging pick-up, leaving me "WTFed?"
Finally, the 1-trick pony Battle Mountain World Record holding bike ETA. A camera is attached so the rider can see where he is going on a small screen.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me and I'll do my best to answer as fully as possible. And if you are interested in either riding together and/or trying out my V20 to see if it is something you might want to see if it fits you, I'll be happy to meet up for a test ride and to offer tips to make it smoother. I never got that option. I just thought "If those guys can do it then so can I" and bought my V20 used with no looking back.
Later I'll post some Strava rides, showing data that shows exactly how much power I used, the climbing, speeds and more that shows just how efficient it is, and other posts about why I bought a recumbent to ride when I am not on my road bike.
First off, I am not that good of a writer, and I am not very organized, so I am going to keep it short and sweet in explaining recumbents how I understand them, and with enough of the basics that I hope gives a solid base to build from.
Types (From slowest to fastest, and 2-4 wheels)
Touring - Seat angles from about 30-50 degrees. Plenty of storage capacity. Probably the easiest kind to learn on because of the more upright sitting position. Because of the sitting position creating a good hip angle, these are also good at climbing. In stripped down form and aero wheels they are very fast, and in some cases might be just as aero (or more) as a rider on a TT bike. Some can handle trails with wider tire capability, and there are quite a few trikes being manufactured for this.
This bike is a RWD Azub, with a 26"/20" wheel set.
Racing Recumbents - There are 2 main types. High, and low racers. In general these are classified as how high your butt is off the ground, and how high your BB (Bottom Bracket) is in relation to your seat height. This relation of BB height and seat height is important aerodynamically because if you can get your torso to pass through the hole that your feet are punching in the air you will be more efficient. Feet too high or low and it is a trade-off in speed or handling. There are racing trikes too.
The first pic is my Cruzbike V20, with dual 700c wheels and a 14L-16L rear storage bag. It is a FWD, MBB (moving Bottom Bracket) high racer. I can get my toes on the ground without sitting up.
This is a VeloKraft Nocom, which is a RWD Low Racer. You can put your hand on the ground. Very fast bike mainly for straight line rides, but as you can see, there is chain rub on the front wheel that happens in low speed turns. Maybe heel strike in turns also depending on your cleat placement and shoe size. Neither of those is an issue at speed since you lean the bike to turn instead of turning the wheel. In climbs it has an advantage of better grip on the drive wheel but a weight penalty in a very long chain. On the flats, the weight only matters in acceleration.
This is a FWD Low Racer. The pros and cons are opposite of the RWD VeloKraft above. Less chain weight, but more possibility of front wheel slip in climbs. Also you have to carry 2 different sizes of tubes.
Partially Faired and Faired Recumbents - Various sizes and styles of tail boxes on the rear, or nose cones on the front that improve aerodynamics, and sometimes also serves as storage. Not something we see except online so they may look kind of silly, but as far as efficiency is concerned, they don't seem like they are human powered.
This is a fully faired Lightning F-40. It has a spandex style covering that can be removed easily.
This is a partially faired Birk
Velomobiles - 3 or 4 wheels with a full body fairing. Some include a hood that covers the riders head, making it not only faster, but the rider is virtually dry in rain. Quite a few companies are making them now, and they are not only efficient, their cost reflects it.
This one is a Bulk, a new company with what seems to be the most aero velomobile available now.
Streamliners - Similar to Velomobiles, but only 2 wheels. Current World Record is 144kph (almost 90mph) under the rider's own power. Some are 1-trick ponies that only do 1 thing, which go very fast in a straight line, but not all of them are purpose built for Battle Mountain runs. Virtually all of them are one-off custom garage builds, but years ago there were a few that were produced in limited numbers.
Multi-World Champ Steve Slade's Beano (kevlar/carbon weave) and Russell Bridge's Snoopy (carbon fiber), 2 custom made circuit racers that lap almost everyone except the strongest velomobile riders.
My personal favorite is the Coyote, and I thought I was going to be able to get the molds for it, but the guy who offered me the molds gave them to someone else suddenly when I was arranging pick-up, leaving me "WTFed?"
Finally, the 1-trick pony Battle Mountain World Record holding bike ETA. A camera is attached so the rider can see where he is going on a small screen.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me and I'll do my best to answer as fully as possible. And if you are interested in either riding together and/or trying out my V20 to see if it is something you might want to see if it fits you, I'll be happy to meet up for a test ride and to offer tips to make it smoother. I never got that option. I just thought "If those guys can do it then so can I" and bought my V20 used with no looking back.
Later I'll post some Strava rides, showing data that shows exactly how much power I used, the climbing, speeds and more that shows just how efficient it is, and other posts about why I bought a recumbent to ride when I am not on my road bike.
