Penetrating oil/fluid--local version?

jdd

Maximum Pace
Hardest Crash
Jul 26, 2008
2,497
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Kanazawa
#1
Does anyone know what the local version of penetrating oil is?

I've got a very much stuck bolt on a seat tube. It's the same as a cage bolt but on this bike it's on the back (wheel side) and was intended as a fender mount. This is the 7th season for the bike, and while I did have it out & maintained early on, it's been sitting there untouched for several years now. Tho the area has been cleaned, I haven't paid attention to the bolt itself--now very corroded. I tried pliers and channel-locks the other day but only succeeded in knocking some of the corrosion off.

The hex hole in the bolt itself is too far gone to get the right wrench in there.

Frame is CF, and I'd rather write off the bolt than crack/damage the frame trying to get it out.

So leave it as is, or how hard to try... Suggestions?
 

StuInTokyo

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Dec 3, 2010
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#4
WD-40 or 5-56 is not penetrating oil, it is different stuff.

This is what you want.....

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This is penetrating oil.

Monotaro sells it >> here <<

The bolt is steel, and goes into a steel nut?

I suggest this without knowing how sensitive CF frames are to heat, but you could heat up an old screwdriver very hot with a torch, then touch it to the nut side of the problem for a minute. Heating up the nut will make it increase in size a bit, at the same time stick an ice cube on the bolt side and the bolt will shrink a bit. I've done this on motorcycles, it can take a few cycles of the hot poker and the ice cube but it has worked.

Cheers!
 

GSAstuto

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Oct 11, 2009
945
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tokyo
www.roadfixie.com
#6
The nut-sert in the CF frame is alloy, and likely the bolt is steel. So you'll have natural adhesion due the dissimilar metal. Use the <real> penetrating oil and then wiggle the bolt every hour or so. Hopefully enough of the solvent will actually penetrate the threads to dissolve the corrosive bond. Then you can get the bolt to unscrew. Coke does nothing, I'm victim to that urban myth since I was 7yo - and that was a long time ago. Besides, the last thing you'd want to do is put phosphoric acid onto your CF nut-sert. (The supposed active ingredient in coke) Personally Marvel Mystery Oil has always worked the best. Other white trash tricks:

1) Potatoes and baking soda
2) Kroil
3) Automatic Transmission Fluid mixed with some MEK
4) Kerosene
5) Naval Jelly
6) Vinegar
7) Hydrogen Peroxide

I'm sure there are hundreds others...
 

Gunjira

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Oct 2, 2009
1,002
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Tokyo
#8
The nut-sert in the CF frame is alloy, and likely the bolt is steel. So you'll have natural adhesion due the dissimilar metal. Use the <real> penetrating oil and then wiggle the bolt every hour or so. Hopefully enough of the solvent will actually penetrate the threads to dissolve the corrosive bond. Then you can get the bolt to unscrew. Coke does nothing, I'm victim to that urban myth since I was 7yo - and that was a long time ago. Besides, the last thing you'd want to do is put phosphoric acid onto your CF nut-sert. (The supposed active ingredient in coke) Personally Marvel Mystery Oil has always worked the best. Other white trash tricks:

1) Potatoes and baking soda
2) Kroil
3) Automatic Transmission Fluid mixed with some MEK
4) Kerosene
5) Naval Jelly
6) Vinegar
7) Hydrogen Peroxide

I'm sure there are hundreds others...
Tim, you should work as an advisor for Tepco, they seem to rely mostly on white trash kind of materials
 

GSAstuto

Maximum Pace
Oct 11, 2009
945
242
103
tokyo
www.roadfixie.com
#9
Haha! I can say the MEK/ATF combo is pretty effective. But it is also the highest potential carcinogen. And if you overheat it - it flames up pretty well!! (Don't try using a torch AND this combo at the same time). If you can't get ahold of some MEK, Acetone works pretty well, too - but, again, that combo will strip the gel coat off your frame faster than anything!

But guys, KROIL is the best, hands down! I used to have a specialty autoshop back in the day - and worked mainly on old British and Italian rigs, oftentimes scavanged from vinyards, goat fields and junk yards. You have to deal with ALOT of corroded, rusted, stuck bolts, pistons, shafts, etc. KROIL was the best. I don't have any here, but I'll see about getting some sent over. I swear, a few drops of this stuff in your Mother In Law's coffee and you'll never see her again!

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Tim, you should work as an advisor for Tepco, they seem to rely mostly on white trash kind of materials
 
Dec 31, 2009
906
87
48
Matsumoto
#14
When dealing with a bolt head being stripped, I have cut a slit with a hacksaw or Dremel and removed with a screwdriver. Allow the fluid to sit overnoght for best results. I also tap the head of the bolt with a hammer to try and shake it up in there.