I got the only rotor I could find on Amazon right now with the specs I need. It is resin only, and that could be its downfall, but it should work while I get something better for the mid term. Only about a thousand yen too
Luka, glad you were able to buy a caliper. Like I wrote you, I’m keeping mine for another project, rather than selling it cheap.
Good luck with the rotors, shouldn’t make too much of a difference if you go with the very cheap ones.
Btw, m525 pads are fairly narrow, so unless you are running other super lightweight/narrow rotors (which the shimano ones are not) you won’t have any problems. Btw, the stock red trp pads are pretty bad and won’t last you long. You can find better ones around, I always buy the ceramic ones from disco takes.
If you still find your braking performance lacking, take a good look at your cables, as that makes a huge difference even with the by/rds. Enjoy...
thanks for letting me know @Gunjira did not feel too well the last couple of days, and also too busy so have yet to made final adjustments and checks, but pretty sure I'm all set for the time being as is now. I hope there's no need to change anything (cables and pads incl) for at least 6 months now, but will come back and ask the forum for advice if/when needed. glad I've got the caliper as it looks like we'll get along (hope I'm not speaking too soon)
...I hope there's no need to change anything (cables and pads incl) for at least 6 months now, but will come back and ask the forum for advice if/when needed. glad I've got the caliper as it looks like we'll get along (hope I'm not speaking too soon)
This has to be the best possible solution! I love these. Having the cable instead of the liquid between the lever and caliper makes maintenance so easy - almost non existent.
At the same time, you have a hydraulic caliper which means much better stopping power compared to my rear mechanical one (I've only replaced the front), and also total ease of maintenance, as the pistons self adjust. Since the initial set up and bedding in, I never had to touch them again (apart from the basic keep clean work). Definitely recommend in my personal opinion over either purely mechanical or hydraulic ones
To be fair, I've had a lot of experience with cable brakes, and none with hydraulic. Also, I didn't wanna change my levers, so these were perfect FOR ME. Lazy, check all the boxes solution. I understand that someone with different background may prefer full hydraulic, and did not mean to suggest these are better in all respects and for everyone accross the board. But with that caveat, these get 5 stars from me...
I have experience with hydraulic and can chime in/add where you are having some doubts.
I like the look of 100% hydraulic caliper better and I like the looks of non-hydraulic hoods better. So this is a wash for me. In the bike stand, the 100% hydraulic feels better. When you squeeze the lever and the pads hit, you are done. There is no more to go with the lever. The cable actuated levers have a touch of flex as the cable will stretch after strong engagement (IN THE STAND). In reality, you are already over the bars at this point.
If I were looking at new bikes, I would prefer the full hydraulic setup. When starting from scratch, this is financially not that bad an option. When upgrading an existing bike... There is not enough advantage to a full hydraulic system to justify spending all the coin required to buy shifters & calipers. So my reason for these brakes are based on value. After running them for 2 years, I have no once thought it was a mistake or that any other option would have been better. Simple setup and virtually no maintenance is a product of good design.
I am also on full hydros on the new bike now and have to say that it’s a good level above the hy/rds. Best braking i ever had, even on 140mm front rotors. Bleeding the brakes wasn’t hard and so far the brakes have been maintenance free. I just wish Shimano made some better six bolt rotors.
@bloaker@Gunjira I had a full hydraulic bike and had a bit of a bad experience with it. Not sure if it was due to my inexperience in how to maintain them, or if it is something that is a bit of an issue with hydraulic brakes in general. One problem was that when I replaced the front wheel after taking the bike on the train, I had to reset the front rotor to get the alignment right again. Otherwise, tick, tick, tick....(and 'yes', I put the spacer in when the wheel was removed, and the rotor was not warped) Second issue was squealing on long descents (the brakes, not me)
So, 'tick' and 'squeal' -- have you found them to be an issue if you know how to properly adjust the brakes?
The "tick" is usually 1 of 2 things... 1) The caliper is not spaced correctly and touching the rotor somewhere not on the braking surface. 2) Wrong rotor for the brake.
Squealing 1) If a brake gets damp, this happens. 2) If you did not bed them properly, this can happen. 3) You can possibly resolve it with one good descent - Get the bike up to roughly 30kph, then apply the squealing brake (1 at a time if both) rather aggressively bringing the bike down to an almost stop and repeat. I have done this up to 10 times to shut a brake up. Doing this transfers some of the brake pad material to your rotor. Thus re-bedding them. I have had pretty good luck with this, however on occasion it doesn't work.
*there are times when I can't figure out these little things. On my salsa about 6 years ago I could not figure it out. The brakes just made a fuss, so I ended up swapping my front and rear rotors. The bike immediately shut up and worked as expected. On a MTB one time I just swapped my brake pads from F to R, same thing... problem solved.