If anyone is wondering about these brakes, I run them on my Salsa and with some tinkering to get my setup right, I love them. It is a pretty simple upgrade to get your pads to center up with the hydro and not spend a ton to convert your levers.
It’s definitely a step up from regular mechanical brakes I ran before such as Shimano or TRP spires. I’m switching to hydro for the first time now, but do not expect power and modulation to get much better.
ok, just figured that out. I thought it won't work for me, but having had a better look at the bike, it might actually be the post mount and not the flat as I thought. however, my rotors are definitely not 6 bolt, but center mount, so I guess this is out...?
Post mount is most common. Again, the rotors don't matter - as long as you have the correct size. These will be replacing something... so it is 99% the right size since you will fit them exactly like the old one.
Also - you said you figured out the centering... but to reiterate, these are cable actuated hydraulic brakes. The master cylinder is on the caliper vs the shifter. The cable is just transferring the pull of the lever to the master cylinder.
thanks. actually, still haven't figured out the centering, only the mount part.
about rotors, basically I would not be able to use the ones provided with these brakes, but either my current ones (yes, 160), or get new ones which are hub mount right? if that's the case the price here is not so tempting, as TRP sells them new for 120$ basically.
I'd have to see if they're compatible with 105 5800 levers, but probably are
Yup, post mount. these will work. As for the terminology of discs.... "Centerlock" is what you have. It uses a cassette tool to tighten. 6 bolt is the other setup. This only describes the interface between the hub and disc. The actual disc size has nothing to do with this.
As for the "self centering" I keep referencing, this isn't anything you do. it is something the hydraulic brake does on its own and one of the reasons it is superior to mechanical. Most mechanical brakes have only one moving piston. The other side is just a back stop. As the pads wear, you either need to continually adjust the caliper or let the rotor bend to meet the backstop. Most riders do the second and just accept their brakes use to be better. The hydraulic setup has pistons on both sides that move. Since they are using the same fluid *as long as they are clean* then will move both pads in to make contact. As the pads wear, the caliper adjusts and keeps things working as expected.
You would mount the TRP brakes just like your existing brakes. Road brake pull is pretty much the same for years... so these will work with your 105.
thanks @bloaker makes sense. one of the things I disliked about these is how often I need to adjust the pads, so perhaps that can be done away with. so is the brake fluid something that needs maintaining too? I understand the basics of hydraulics when the fluid is in the cables, but here?
@Gunjira would you consider 10,000 yen for the calipers alone, since I don't have use for these rotors?
@luka - the fluid still needs to be maintained... but it is not often. I have a season on mine and they are still working awesome, so not need to mess with it. Amazingly the brake pads are doing well still - so really there is nothing for me to do with them yet. When I replace the pads, I will look into refreshing the fluid. Having everything contained at the caliper does minimize the fluid required as well as where air can potentially get in and/or expand.
sounds good. no actual experience with hydraulics and I did not want fluid in my cables so basically given up on it. never realized one can have both cable and hydraulics just in the caliper. this may be the best solution to help me dip a toe without jumping in. what about cleaning? how often do you need to clean the pads and rotors? I suppose you can't really get the pads out to do this in such a setup?
with the current ones, at least once in 2-3 weeks of regular commuting in the city only (so no gravel, dust, mud etc) I need to basically take it all apart, clean and reassemble/ adjust or the braking becomes horrible and intolerable
I almost never clean mine - on any of the bikes. When I do - rubbing alcohol on a clean rag for the rotors, then a bit of sandpaper to scuff up the pads and I am done. But again, I rarely need to do this.
thanks, I hear that from others too. so either all (or most) mechanical disk brakes are poor quality and biatch to maintain, or just my particular model. if I'm replacing this I'm gonna do away with the rotors too, and these would be compatible you think?
yeah that's what it says right there. so I guess it is possible to 1) keep the current brifters (5800) and cables and 2) fit these on my frame et voila miraculously I have hydraulic brakes suddenly haha so @Gunjira would you sell calipers separately from the rotors which don't do it for me?