Help Need help for remove the crankset and BB

laz

Warming-Up
Sep 2, 2009
61
1
0
Tokyo, Mitaka
#1
I ordered a new Fulcrum cranksets and the BB cup, I think they are now resting in the Japan custom and wait for the tax approval. So it is a time for me to think how to remove the old cranksets and the BB.

My old cranksets is Ultegra 6501, 9 speed system. I thought it is using Octalink types BB (as the bike as the first time was not built by myself......) I have no experience in removal and installment of cranksets.

Here is my problems:

1. I thought the start should be the left side of the crankset (without chain side), I saw a retaining ring ("dust cap" I think) , how can I remove it??

2. And the crank bolt , is that go for counter-clockwise or clockwise? That is EXTREMELY hard!!! I am wondering if I am able to turn that out.

3. About the BB (If I final be able to turn the crank bolt......), my bike is Pinarello aged Prince, so I remember it is using Italian BB style. So if I want to remove that lock, it is go counter-clockwise or clockwise?

Thanks very much !!!
 

Phil

Maximum Pace
#2
No idea about Octalink or other older Shimano crank systems...maybe this helps: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120

IF your crank is a Hollowtech II type then...

1. I thought the start should be the left side of the crankset (without chain side), I saw a retaining ring ("dust cap" I think) , how can I remove it??
This is the bearing preload cap. You need this tool to remove it: Shimano TL-FC16 (don't bother ordering online, your LBS will have it or can order it for you.) Remember to loosen the crankbolts first, or you'll never get it off (yes, first-hand experience on that one :eek:)

2. And the crank bolt , is that go for counter-clockwise or clockwise? That is EXTREMELY hard!!! I am wondering if I am able to turn that out.
Standard threading, so counter-clockwise. One trick I learned is to get a length of PVC piping and place it over your spanner/wrench/hex key etc to increase torque.

3. About the BB (If I final be able to turn the crank bolt......), my bike is Pinarello aged Prince, so I remember it is using Italian BB style. So if I want to remove that lock, it is go counter-clockwise or clockwise?
If Italian threading, then yes, counterclockwise both sides.
 

laz

Warming-Up
Sep 2, 2009
61
1
0
Tokyo, Mitaka
#3
Yes, I read the Park tools website, and my cranksets looks like this one.

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however I got only 2 circle instead of 4. The Park tools website did not mention about how to remove that cap......

I am thinking to buy a much longer and stronger tools, hope that can help.
 

AlanW

Maximum Pace
Jan 30, 2007
1,214
436
103
Tokyo
#4
That appears to be a self-extracting crankset. You should be able to remove it by using a large Allen key (probably 8 mm) in the central bolt. As you undo the bolt (anti-clockwise) there is a flange that presses against the 4-holed circular part and pulls the whole crank off the BB. Many Octalink cranks came with this system. As you undo the Allen bolt you will feel it come loose, then it will spin easily for a couple of turns, then it will stiffen up again as it starts to pull the crank off the BB axle.
If the 4-holed part starts to bulge outwards or the Allen bolt gets very stiff, it is likely that the crank is partially seized onto the BB, which can happen if the crank has been installed for a long time. In this case, STOP. The self extractors are usually not that strong. If this happens, undo the 4-holed circular part (again, anti-clockwise) with a peg spanner or drift (a set of circlip pliers can also be used), undo the central Allen bolt, then use a steel crank extractor to pull the cranks off. Make sure the crank extractor threads (the ones on the outer barrel to the right on the picture) are fully engaged in the crank before you tighten the centre piece of the crank extractor. Crank threads are soft aluminium and if the crank extractor is not fully engaged, you can rip the thread out of the crank. If that happens, you are stuffed - the crank will be next-to-impossible to remove.
If you undo the central allen bolt and it just unscrews, and the crank does not come off, then the 4-holed part is simply a dust cap for the crank threads and you will need a crank extractor like this Shimano TL-FC-10.
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pedalon.co.uk%2Facatalog%2Fmd3373.jpg&hash=fdf457d1839d551da877990b11140806

With Octalink, the axle diameter is large and you may need a plug like this Shimano TL-FC15 for the crank extractor tool to press against
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This will give you access to the bottom bracket, which, again, will need a specific tool to undo. As Philip said, Italian BBs are right-hand threaded both sides and unscrew anti-clockwise. They are likely to be pretty stiff but should come out with judicious use of the proper tool and a big spanner. When you replace the BB, you will likely need some threadlock on the drive side cup, since the Italian design is prone to unscrewing itself (which is why most BBs follow the British design with a left-hand threaded drive side cup).
 

laz

Warming-Up
Sep 2, 2009
61
1
0
Tokyo, Mitaka
#6
ok, After a read of your help I opened the 2-holed circular part , as show in this photo:

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so after the open up that circular part, if that safe to undo the bolt? I need to find a better tool, in my home have only small simple tool that cannot help me in this case.

At the same time I have now start to find a good local bike store , in case I find I do not have the skill (most of my concern is the power of my arm, as the cranksets was installed on my bike untouch for nearly 4 years already). I never asking bike store for service, is that common in Japan to ask a bike store to help me change the bike part, that the part I am not buy from them? I live in Mitaka and Kichijoji area. Any good bike store recommend?

Thanks! Especially for Alan, really great help!
 

FarEast

Maximum Pace
May 25, 2009
5,528
538
193
Yokohama
#7
Ok this is not a QR/ Self extracting crank. If you are willing to have a go yourself then I would pick up a bike tool kit. These are about 6,000 yen and will have all the tools needed to repair pretty much everything on your bike including the parts needed for this job.

For this job you are going to need the Shimano TL-FC-10 as Alan said and also the Shimano TL-FC15 plug. This will remove the crank arms.

To remove the BB you will need Shimano TL-FC32 which is the spanner for removing the bottom bracket cups. Most brands of BB will have an arrow on either side showing you the direction for tightening.

Easiest way to remove these is to flip the bike upside down so it rests on the saddle and bars as this will give you more leverage from a standing position. I would recommend that you wrap the frame in a cloth as if you slip it’s very easy to scratch your frame.

When installing your new BB prepare the frame by washing out the BB area with degreaser, go at it with a toothbrush removing all debris and gunk and then using paper tools wipe off the area of residue.
 

AlanW

Maximum Pace
Jan 30, 2007
1,214
436
103
Tokyo
#8
...is that common in Japan to ask a bike store to help me change the bike part, that the part I am not buy from them? ....
It's quite alright to ask a bike shop to fit parts not bought from them. They will charge you for this service though, whereas, sometimes they will do it for free if you have bought the parts from them.
Search these forums for bike shop mechanic recommendations.

AW.
 

laz

Warming-Up
Sep 2, 2009
61
1
0
Tokyo, Mitaka
#9
Thanks for helping me! This afternoon I made a small step:

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seem like this weekend is the time to buy a tool kit. I found that even I buy only the tools that needed, that will cost me around 3000 yen already, that will be better to get a full tools kit with 6000-7000, just need to make sure the tool I needed are included.
 

FarEast

Maximum Pace
May 25, 2009
5,528
538
193
Yokohama
#10
I have one similar to this one, it was an older version so had to purchase some new tools to cover the new style BB.

proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fbikeisland.com%2Fimages%2F72057.JPG&hash=d5dc73aa567be721dfdd79c0dccbc38c


This one however pretty much has everything you need to do 99% of the work on your bike and my LBS has it for 5,800 Yen.

I am however tempted to go out and get the Park Tool Professional set.:D
 

laz

Warming-Up
Sep 2, 2009
61
1
0
Tokyo, Mitaka
#11
I have one similar to this one, it was an older version so had to purchase some new tools to cover the new style BB.


This one however pretty much has everything you need to do 99% of the work on your bike and my LBS has it for 5,800 Yen.

I am however tempted to go out and get the Park Tool Professional set.:D
Wow that is not expensive! I reached Shibuya Mapsport (that one of the large 2nd hand bike shop in Tokyo and a well know Yahoo auction seller), a similar tool set need around 7800yen. if I can find a similar one close to 6000 that will be great.

proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chainreactioncycles.com%2FImages%2FModels%2FOriginal%2F17700.jpg&hash=cf7e0101e2e5626f2d705f84ab80e176


If you get this thing, I think you are close to open a small bike workshop !
 

FarEast

Maximum Pace
May 25, 2009
5,528
538
193
Yokohama
#12
Hey Laz,

I pretty much have all those tools plus more. Including a wheel building jig. My tools are old so I'm also looking to replace them and as Park Tool do the "All Mighty" set its very tempting.

What with maintaining all of the families bikes and truing up mine for racing and the possibility of me releasing my own brand of custom built bikes (Road and MTB) I need to get my kit back in order.

Also just to let you know Sagami Cycles in Mitsukiyo has them in stock.
 

laz

Warming-Up
Sep 2, 2009
61
1
0
Tokyo, Mitaka
#13
Yes, then you may want to have a look of this

proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chainreactioncycles.com%2FImages%2FModels%2FOriginal%2F37001.jpg&hash=5827ff57a6dbc8dd1d8a1e2d3e4dae86


4000 pound. :cool:

Back to the Crankset removal, I saw the model number of my crank is FC-6500/FC 6503, however when I found the tech doc in shimano website. http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Ultegra/FC6500/SI-16T0B_En_v1_m56577569830611829.pdf

I am already remove what it is needed: the cap, fixing blot, and the washer. In the pdf at right upper corner it is said: The crank arm can be removed simply by turning the fixing bolt counterclockwise. Why i cannot :confused:
 

FarEast

Maximum Pace
May 25, 2009
5,528
538
193
Yokohama
#14
In that case it is a Quick Release/Self extracting crank, You will need to put the cap, fixing blot, and the washer back on and then follow the directions. Allen explained how it works as well.
 

AlanW

Maximum Pace
Jan 30, 2007
1,214
436
103
Tokyo
#15
For cranks that have been on 4 years my strong recommendation is to use the TL-FC10 and TL-FC15 combination rather than the self-extractor set.
 

laz

Warming-Up
Sep 2, 2009
61
1
0
Tokyo, Mitaka
#16
SUCCESSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!

After I read and read and read the pdf, I found a very big mistake! I remove the cap and bolt and try to take out the crank! What a mistake! The pdf said not about remove the cap, so I try to put back the cap, and try my very afford to move the bolt, very soon the bolt meet the strong stop, but not impossible to move, so I keep trying and trying.........

GREAT! After a few years my cranksets finally removed ! Very dirty in the cover of the BB

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Seem like it is safe to use TL-UN74-S to open the Italian BB :cool: