macrophotofly
Maximum Pace
- Aug 27, 2012
- 581
- 234
In the end a combination of my lack of Japanese and then worrying about someone else mucking my bike up led me down the path of fitting the BB30 myself
I figured out I needed this Park set (not so much the removal tool, I was really just after the two BB30-size press-ends that mate properly with the bearings). The set cost 5k JPY from Amazon and arrived the following day.
You are meant to use them with this which costs another 10k JPY....
....for a bolt and two arms welded to nuts?!?! I think I can do better than that from Tokyo Hands (total cost 1400 JPY) and thus the MacFly BB30 fitter was formed;
(...and before you ask, I've no idea why they attached a cable guide under the bracket given its got no use - another question back to Boardman when I have time to write to them)
I made sure it was all properly greased, square and then gently tightened the nuts up with spanners on both sides. It all went in without too much of a problem! If I was doing it again I would have done one side at a time (and I did have the larger washers to mate up), but at the time applying pressure to both bearings seemed to be a good way to avoid pressure on the frame itself.
I'd also acquired a second, car, torque wrench from Amazon at the same time - so it was quickly onto the crank itself and all tightened up to the prerequisite 50nm. The SRAM crank has the plastic tension "nut" that you screw against the bearings and then tighten a grub screw, rather than messing around with washers and a curly sprung plastic washer -
Next up the brakes. Having been spoilt with hydraulic disc brakes on my Boardman Pro for the last year Iwanted needed the best road brakes I could get. Owen recommended the DA9000's and although I would be using them with Ultegra shifter's I still felt it was worth the cost. On unpacking the first one, I could not work out why the nut wasn't deep enough for the recess on the rear side of the front fork.
Twenty minutes later I opened the other box and realised I was trying to fit the rear brake to the front and the other box had all the right parts for the job (multiple depths of nut and the right brake ) ....NOOB mistake no.4!
One thing does occur to me now, late on this evening; if I mixed up the two brakes units after having taken them both out of their boxes (which I don't think I did!) - how do I tell which is the front and which is the rear?
Next up the rest of chainset, stem, bars and shifters
I figured out I needed this Park set (not so much the removal tool, I was really just after the two BB30-size press-ends that mate properly with the bearings). The set cost 5k JPY from Amazon and arrived the following day.
You are meant to use them with this which costs another 10k JPY....
....for a bolt and two arms welded to nuts?!?! I think I can do better than that from Tokyo Hands (total cost 1400 JPY) and thus the MacFly BB30 fitter was formed;
(...and before you ask, I've no idea why they attached a cable guide under the bracket given its got no use - another question back to Boardman when I have time to write to them)
I made sure it was all properly greased, square and then gently tightened the nuts up with spanners on both sides. It all went in without too much of a problem! If I was doing it again I would have done one side at a time (and I did have the larger washers to mate up), but at the time applying pressure to both bearings seemed to be a good way to avoid pressure on the frame itself.
I'd also acquired a second, car, torque wrench from Amazon at the same time - so it was quickly onto the crank itself and all tightened up to the prerequisite 50nm. The SRAM crank has the plastic tension "nut" that you screw against the bearings and then tighten a grub screw, rather than messing around with washers and a curly sprung plastic washer -
Next up the brakes. Having been spoilt with hydraulic disc brakes on my Boardman Pro for the last year I
Twenty minutes later I opened the other box and realised I was trying to fit the rear brake to the front and the other box had all the right parts for the job (multiple depths of nut and the right brake ) ....NOOB mistake no.4!
One thing does occur to me now, late on this evening; if I mixed up the two brakes units after having taken them both out of their boxes (which I don't think I did!) - how do I tell which is the front and which is the rear?
Next up the rest of chainset, stem, bars and shifters