Lynskey frames this and that

luka

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good thing cannon-chan is not jealous. I've explained to her there's road, and then there's this thing - off-road. she will always be the one and only zexy tarmac climbing sleek beast. but sometimes I have these urges she just isn't made to meet. "big fat tyres and everything" "I love her, I need her, I mmm a byway star"
 

andywood

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I see I got mentioned here a couple of times. Lots of info to sieve through. Is it a problem with the seatpost?

I use bog standard aluminium Deda seatpost and bars. The seatpost gets stuck as there is an aluminium sheef (correct word?) in the seat tube. So it pays to pull the seatpost out every few months to stop the seatpost getting stuck like the barnacles on a ship wreck...

Andy
 

luka

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thanks @andywood we solved it in the meantime. wasn't about seatpost/seat tube interface, but about the lynskey seatpost and saddle clamp part.

update: lost patience with hydraulic disks and so shop will do the bleed, at least on the rear, but probably both. I'll just do the drivetrain now and take the bike over so hopefully by tomorrow I can have it back. live and learn. I'll probably get used to it, but for this weekend I've had it with bike fiddling...
 

luka

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so I worked on this from about 10:30 till 4:30 (with breaks - see what I did there?) today. just had too much going on this 3 day weekend so I ran out of patience with the brakes after not being able to get a stiff lever at the front (pun semi intended?) for a while and decided since it's going for the steerer cut and expander install at the LBS anyway, and brake bleed is pretty cheap there, I'll just leave it to the pros this time.

got everything else in working order (even if slight adjustments here and there remain) and took it to the lbs around 6 pm. they close at 7, have their work cut out for tomorrow, and the shop is not open Tue and Wed. so I'll only get it late next week, i.e. in 4-5 days. I was very conscious beforehand of both but still pretty surprised by two things:

1) how comfortable this rode. I know, big tyres, massive tailwind, everything fresh and new, titanium frame etc etc but it felt like a hoverboard or something. the roar of the tyres too, mmmmm

2) how effin scary it is to ride without any braking power. I used to do (as we all did I think) heel in the rear tyre jam way of braking as a kid, and tried something similar both front and rear, assisted with the other foot dragged on the tarmac. but still felt so incapacitated I walked every even slightest downhill slope etc for the 3.5 km to the lbs. luckily it's mostly on arakawa, and there were few people around. so this should be ready for the next weekend, even tho I'm not sure if I'll be available for cycling. but there goes

1565521126317.png
 

kiwisimon

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have you tapped the air bubbles out of the lines fully? It does take a while. Try the front one again today and you should be able to get a firm pump.
 

luka

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thanks, but I lost patience working on the front one. did not even wanna imagine what the rear one would be like, with 3x longer cable etc. since it was going to the shop for the steerer cut anyway, and brake bleed is only 2,000 yen per brake (plus I have other things requiring my time and attention this weekend) it was all outsourced last evening, to return to me in 3-4 days
 
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luka

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I'm sure I'll learn to work on them gradually. but I've had a bit too much all at the same time with this build methinks. I've done my share of maintenance over the years, even overhauls etc but when it's from scratch you really need to think about every step and how it's gonna influence everything else. I've learned that there's something called crown race for ex, and that it's a non insignificant bugger too! too much time spent on all the decisions on bars, spacers, saddles etc etc. I also wanted to see what's the quality of the shop, as it looks pretty professional and it's close by (3 km away) so took this chance to test them. if he's good I'm sure there will be work coming from me from time to time (speaking of time: I'm looking at you next - time pedals. they were actually pretty passable as a short test ride this morning)
 

kiwisimon

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speaking of time: I'm looking at you next - time pedals. they were actually pretty passable as a short test ride this morning)
they are all I use on MTB Road and commuter Have since 1996 when I stopped using Campy look pedals.
 
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luka

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yeah I got these and now I've switched the SPD pedals to the new lynskey, I'm probably gonna keep them and put them on the road bike where they belong. after being on the shelf for about a year (including the failed attempt to ship them to Europe and all) they were 8 outta 10 today and I suspect if given a proper service can get back to 15 in no ;) time
 

joewein

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believe me @stu_kawagoe I have given them all the chances today I had to give. it felt not quite but almost as my aggressive position on the SuperSix, which is not something I need on this bike.

yeah, the difference between the two was 2 cm so I would need to downsize the stem from 100 to 80 mm for it to possibly work. there was also the issue of width, and how the levers fit on the flare. I just couldn't get them to point where I wanted to because of the curvature of the bar.
I had a similar issue when I upgraded my Bike Friday. I had the Nitto Randonneur (B135AA, 45 cm) bars on my NFE and loved them, so I wanted to make the switch to that on the BF at the same time I switched the drive train from 3x10 to 2x11. Then I was confused why I could only see 44 cm of width listed, not 45 cm. Turns out both the B135 and the B132 are called "Randonneur" and only the 135 has a 46 width. Anyway, the B132 I had bought by mistake added almost 2 cm of reach (122 vs 105 mm) so I would have been too stretched out. The bike shop that did the parts swap actually noticed this. They tried to correct by moving the saddle forward, but ultimately the only fix was going for a different stem that was 2 cm shorter.

Now you know the back story why I would be interested in your B135AA, to get the my BF close in setup to the NFE, as originally intended.
 
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luka

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Now you know the back story why I would be interested in your B135AA, to get the my BF close in setup to the NFE, as originally intended.
sure thing, I have no need for it as it turned out now. if you can organize to come by my house on one of your century rides or something I'll let you have it for free. this is what I settled for in the end, 24mm shorter reach made all the difference in the new geometry overall

1565603715873.png
 
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luka

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and @Cactaur here is what guys at Lynskey told me about the seatpost VS head parts interface. so it's similar to that tip in the video @kiwisimon shared above, but the force goes to the saddle rails rather than bolt threads, so I prefer below methink. apparently it won't seize even when left dry:

Hey Luka, please do not apply grease between the titanium surface and the aluminum surface. It is a friction based clamp and grease will allow the saddle clamps to slip during your ride. I have yet to here of one of our seatposts seizing with the aluminum internals. It is a wedged design, so when you attempt to adjust the saddle position; the wedges will have to be popped free. I will suggest to loosen the bolt, leaving it threaded in by a few threads(keeps everything from falling apart onto the floor), and then place a 2x4 or piece of wood on top of the saddle(protects the saddle) and give the wood a smack with a rubber mallet over the nose of the saddle to pop the wedges free
 

Cactaur

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Now that the shop is doing the bleed I guess I should ask, did your brakes come without the hose attached? My 105 retail had the preinstalled filled hose with one end plugged up. Do the run, measure, cut, install. No real bleeding involved tho I did the top off and try to pump any bubbles dance.

Regarding the seatpost I guess they know best. Worst case smack em in the face with the reply if you need to RMA.
 

luka

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Yeah I'll test different saddles and positions for the foreseeable future anyway, so no worries there for now.

You mean your brake hose came installed at the caliper side, and already everything full of oil? Cause it's hard to imagine it would come installed to the lever. Doesn't it all spill around when you cut it to size? I had to do mine from the scratch, every little part separate
 

bloaker

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Yeah I'll test different saddles and positions for the foreseeable future anyway, so no worries there for now.

You mean your brake hose came installed at the caliper side, and already everything full of oil? Cause it's hard to imagine it would come installed to the lever. Doesn't it all spill around when you cut it to size? I had to do mine from the scratch, every little part separate
On the MTB side of the house if they come pre-bred, you lose almost no mineral oil at all with the shimanos when you cut them down. 90% of the time you can get away without even bleeding them.
 
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luka

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I guess the caliper and hose are properly filled up, but wouldn't you still have to account for the reservoir at the lever? Or is this also pre-bled? Well, won't do me much good either way now, but just curious
 

Cactaur

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The lever also has fluid in, there's a stopper on the port. As long as you don't hold the tube horizontal after you cut there should be minimum spillage.
 

luka

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Wow, that sounds like a much better solution. I would imagine at least some air would find it's way in there but since it's being sold that way perhaps not...
 

Cactaur

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Works pretty well. Pump a bit after connecting and any air from the cut should travel to the reservoir. Attach the funnel and top off if paranoid.