Lynskey frames this and that

kiwisimon

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how about remove the seatpost, back off the clamp bolt or even remove it and smack the camp on on a rubber mallet resting on concrete? some kind of shock should be enough to loosen them.
 

luka

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the clam bolt has been removed completely from the start. it was a good idea to smack the seatpost against the mallet instead, but didn't work. I've moved to other work for now and will have to get back to this later on.... hmmmm
 

luka

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Finally did it but some damage made to the part..... Found a screwdriver that would fit, kept chipping at it, and smashing it against the mallet etc until one wedge feel off. Even then it was pretty hard to get the other one out, and the lower saddle rail clamp was almost siezed against the upper. FFS

IMG_20190810_110231.jpg
 

luka

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Yep, looks like that might be the case. Here's the work so far. Quick lunch break and I'll go on to ballpark position adjustment and brakes installation next.

IMG_20190810_113909.jpg
 
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luka

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I really dislike their saddle mount system. each time I wanna make adjustments, not to mention change the saddle, I have to break open the wedges of hell all over. it might well be that once you have a saddle you like in a position you want, that vice like grip will mean you never need to worry about saddle slip etc but at this stage it's pretty annoying. one more thing I learned, pro stealth saddle I borrowed from @tigerkamen is not working for me at all. the cutout is pressing against all the wrong places. I'm returning that one to you as soon as I can mate. will fit my old forza 4 saddle for now
 

Cactaur

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My order didn’t include the seatpost sorry. Maybe smack near the post head with your hand or rubber mallet?

NVM see you got it out. There have been complaints of these enve binders not being tight enough or fiddly.
 
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kiwisimon

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They say not to but i'd grease those wedges until you get everything sorted then wipe off the grease and seat them home. @andywood do you have this seatpost?
 

luka

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the seatpost was a bit of a pain and an unexpected setback (see what I did there?) at the very beginning, but I'm past that now. seems like the whole day has been deciding between two saddles and two handlebars. I really wanted to love the Nitto one I've seen on @joewein (the flared one in the 1st pic below) but after multiple switch of bars and levers back and forth decided to go with a compact one (2nd photo). Nitto one had me just slightly overreached in this composition of parts unfortunately. I'm glad I bought both and took time to really play with the position etc. even installed the BB, crankset and pedals, just to have a closer feel to the real deal. but it took almost a whole day. I hope to be able to install and dial in the front brake tonight and then the rest tomorrow

1565430605530.png

1565430629324.png
 

luka

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these enve binders not being tight enough or fiddly.
actually I was surprised to see mine came with lynskey's own saddle bind, not the enve one.

They say not to but i'd grease those wedges until you get everything sorted
the parts facing each other (and the lower cradle) are to be greased. if you greased the outer circumference I think it would be prone to slipping (and probably a bit messy). as long as the saddle is in there, the wedge can be broken somewhat easily (unlike at first when I did not have anything wedged in there). but it is a pain that you have to essentially dismember it all just to have even slight adjustment made. I wonder if @andywood has the same experience? since they have it in FAQ I figure it's probably pretty common. @andywood is in the UK atm, so probably can't respond as if he's in the same timezone
 

Cactaur

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This would be a suitable place for the anti seize. Alu bits and ti shell it’s a recipe for galvanic corrosion.
 
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luka

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haven't thought of that, but it makes sense now you brought it up. I'll approach lynskey about it. in any case, I'm not gonna keep the current saddle for long. there will be a period of experimenting, but in the end when I decide on something that will stay there, it might be good to put a bit of anti-sieze.

was pleasantly surprised by how easy the brake hose went through the fork, just slide down as if there's nowhere else to go. let's see what's all this hydraulics about now
 

joewein

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I really wanted to love the Nitto one I've seen on @joewein (the flared one in the 1st pic below) but after multiple switch of bars and levers back and forth decided to go with a compact one (2nd photo). Nitto one had me just slightly overreached in this composition of parts unfortunately.
@luka, if you feel too stretched out with this one, a shorter stem most likely would make it work.. But if you're not going to use the Nitto B135AA (450 mm), I'd be willing to take it off your hands!
 

stu_kawagoe

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If it was me, I’d persevere a bit longer with trying to make those flared bars work. They’ll be much better on the rough stuff/steep descents.
 
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Cactaur

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No shame in going shorter stem. I’m running an 80 cos ‘gravel’. Also the recommended m frame top tube is longer than my old 535mm bike. S frame seat tube was a bit short. I also pay attention to the handlebar reach now when buying bars.
 
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luka

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I thought the wedges were carbon.
most definitely not carbon. in this case the head is not enve, but lynskey parts here too. I'll check with them before messing with it, but thanks for the video, I missed that one. that's a great tip to leave the bolt engaged and use it to ram the opposite wedge out! I'm gonna use that a lot

But if you're not going to use the Nitto B135AA (450 mm), I'd be willing to take it off your hands!
we can probably work something around that @joewein I'll let you know when things settle down (Monday, or maybe next weekend)

With the steerer being so long, you are going to have to cut it to make it a reasonable length then add loads of spacers and play around with how high you want the bars.
that's what I've mostly been doing the whole day today, in addition to swapping the bars. I think I'll leave 36 or 31 mm (16 + 10 + 10 or 16 + 10 + 5) under the stem, and 5mm above the stem.

If it was me, I’d persevere a bit longer with trying to make those flared bars work.
believe me @stu_kawagoe I have given them all the chances today I had to give. it felt not quite but almost as my aggressive position on the SuperSix, which is not something I need on this bike.

No shame in going shorter stem. I’m running an 80 cos ‘gravel’.
I also pay attention to the handlebar reach now when buying bars.
yeah, the difference between the two was 2 cm so I would need to downsize the stem from 100 to 80 mm for it to possibly work. there was also the issue of width, and how the levers fit on the flare. I just couldn't get them to point where I wanted to because of the curvature of the bar. of course, when you are buying bars for a bike you already have, you gonna know the reach, drop etc you need/want. but as I was buying blind before the thing arrived in the end I decided to get a smaller and a bigger one and see what would fit better. maybe if the seatpost did not have the 25mm offset the Nitto bar would work. but overall, it was the easiest for me to just switch tracks to the available compact one rather than think about stems, seatposts etc.

the build is progressing OK. I'm about to finish for the day. decided not to do the bleeding late in the evening/night, but to focus on attaching the calipers and cutting and routing hoses etc. so now I have the cockpit more or less decided, with bar height and lever position set. both brakes are on, as are the hoses, but the bleed will take place tomorrow. BB, crankset and pedals are on (for position checking) but the derailurs and their cables will be dealt with tomorrow. I've done mechanical drivetrain several times before, so there should be less surprises there, as long as I get the brake bleed out of the way tmr morn
 
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