actually I was surprised to see mine came with lynskey's own saddle bind, not the enve one.these enve binders not being tight enough or fiddly.
the parts facing each other (and the lower cradle) are to be greased. if you greased the outer circumference I think it would be prone to slipping (and probably a bit messy). as long as the saddle is in there, the wedge can be broken somewhat easily (unlike at first when I did not have anything wedged in there). but it is a pain that you have to essentially dismember it all just to have even slight adjustment made. I wonder if @andywood has the same experience? since they have it in FAQ I figure it's probably pretty common. @andywood is in the UK atm, so probably can't respond as if he's in the same timezoneThey say not to but i'd grease those wedges until you get everything sorted
@luka, if you feel too stretched out with this one, a shorter stem most likely would make it work.. But if you're not going to use the Nitto B135AA (450 mm), I'd be willing to take it off your hands!I really wanted to love the Nitto one I've seen on @joewein (the flared one in the 1st pic below) but after multiple switch of bars and levers back and forth decided to go with a compact one (2nd photo). Nitto one had me just slightly overreached in this composition of parts unfortunately.
most definitely not carbon. in this case the head is not enve, but lynskey parts here too. I'll check with them before messing with it, but thanks for the video, I missed that one. that's a great tip to leave the bolt engaged and use it to ram the opposite wedge out! I'm gonna use that a lotI thought the wedges were carbon.
we can probably work something around that @joewein I'll let you know when things settle down (Monday, or maybe next weekend)But if you're not going to use the Nitto B135AA (450 mm), I'd be willing to take it off your hands!
that's what I've mostly been doing the whole day today, in addition to swapping the bars. I think I'll leave 36 or 31 mm (16 + 10 + 10 or 16 + 10 + 5) under the stem, and 5mm above the stem.With the steerer being so long, you are going to have to cut it to make it a reasonable length then add loads of spacers and play around with how high you want the bars.
believe me @stu_kawagoe I have given them all the chances today I had to give. it felt not quite but almost as my aggressive position on the SuperSix, which is not something I need on this bike.If it was me, I’d persevere a bit longer with trying to make those flared bars work.
No shame in going shorter stem. I’m running an 80 cos ‘gravel’.
yeah, the difference between the two was 2 cm so I would need to downsize the stem from 100 to 80 mm for it to possibly work. there was also the issue of width, and how the levers fit on the flare. I just couldn't get them to point where I wanted to because of the curvature of the bar. of course, when you are buying bars for a bike you already have, you gonna know the reach, drop etc you need/want. but as I was buying blind before the thing arrived in the end I decided to get a smaller and a bigger one and see what would fit better. maybe if the seatpost did not have the 25mm offset the Nitto bar would work. but overall, it was the easiest for me to just switch tracks to the available compact one rather than think about stems, seatposts etc.I also pay attention to the handlebar reach now when buying bars.