Lynskey frames this and that

luka

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apart from unboxing, the only thing I managed today is to confirm that the rear brake mounting thickness is 20mm, and I'll need the 33mm caliper bolt, while Shimano has unhelpfully provided 43 mm ones. amazon does not stock them. rakuten and yahoo.jp only one online store each, and they gotta source it first, so say could take 2-5 days for the shipping (and another 1-2 to arrive)..... busy for the next two days, no way to squeeze a brick/mortar shop visit either. maybe on Friday.

@Cactaur did you install the FSA compressor in the carbon steerer tube? I guess if you do that, the cane creek top cap is no longer needed, one just uses the FSA one, right? cane creek provided some star-nut too, but I haven't got a clue what to do with it. pretty sure I don't need it, since the compressor/expander is going in there....

aaah this got delivered at a wrong time
 

leicaman

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My caliper bolts were the right size for my niner either. I bought some stainless steel ones from a home centre (viva home) of various lengths and just used those.

Regarding the top cap and expander/compression plug, you need to use one plug and one top cap. The top caps are pretty much interchangeable so if you have an fsa one or a cane creek one, you can use either.

DON’T use the star nut. That’s used only if you have a metal steerer tube. Don’t use it with carbon.
 

luka

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thanks @leicaman kinda what I suspected. star nut is going the miscellaneous parts box, FSA expander and top cap, with the rest of the cane creek headset. now trying to get a commitment from the LBS that if I bring in the fork on Fri evening he'll cut it for me and install the crown race while I'm there so I can take it back right there and start the build on Saturday. but the shop is closed Tue and Wed so I'll have to wait for a reply till Thu I guess
 

Cactaur

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The FSA expander is a special case cos it does not use a central bolt. It has 2 hex diameters. A smaller one opens the expander. The top cap uses a bigger hex and is like a giant nut that threads onto the expander to pull on it. You use the whole thing minus the star nut of course.

Measure twice cut once, I wouldnt be in a hurry to cut that steerer until you're sure. You need to test with the headset and fork crown installed cos that all adds to the stack. You could estimate based on your head tube length plus spacer, headset stack AND stem stack. Bottom line give yourself some breathing room cos there's no going back.
 

luka

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If I can get back from work and stuff and still have some breathing room tonight I may post pics. Otherwise, please give me until Friday night or Saturday morning. Pretty busy this week
 
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stu_kawagoe

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If I can get back from work and stuff and still have some breathing room tonight I may post pics. Otherwise, please give me until Friday night or Saturday morning. Pretty busy this week
Would be great if you could. I just thought it would be nice for the record - and I want to see!
 
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luka

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OK good news. I was able to do some skirting and evading and postponing, to get some free time today. went around some shops and got the crown race installed, as well the bolts for the rear caliper. @Cactaur that was good advice, as I initially thought of measuring the steerer with the other head parts, spacers and stem, but disregarding the crown race. it seemed any difference in stack from it would be insignificant, seeing how thin it was etc. but seeing it sitting there I think it could be 2-3mm difference, enough to warrant another spacer or something. so I'm glad I got that out of the way. it also means I'll have just a bit of time tonight to take a quick video and introduce the frame. give me 2-3 hours. the flip side is that I'll have no time for anything tomorrow or Friday, but at least everything is ready to start the build from Sat morning finally
 
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Cactaur

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Good thing you didn’t buy the bolt off the part number I gave you. I misremembered and said 25mm. In actual fact my order was 15mm.

Seems they are doing rolling updates to mounting hardware so even the ‘correct’ 15mm would be wrong for your case.
 
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luka

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yeah, don't know what's up with that. in shimano manual I've seen chainstay thickness of 20, 25 and 30 mm, to which you need to add 13 mm respectively. so I got initially the 43 mm ones (to correspond with 30 mm frame) but needed the shortest of these, 33mm instead. they were 505 yen a pop! shimano should just deduct the price of bolts from the brake price, and make it a separate part so each can buy what they need. this way it's just a waste of money, AND I now have a useless pair of bolts around......

but enough small talk. let me introduce you to her (all the welds and BBs exposed etc) SFW

 

Kangaeroo

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yeah, don't know what's up with that. in shimano manual I've seen chainstay thickness of 20, 25 and 30 mm, to which you need to add 13 mm respectively. so I got initially the 43 mm ones (to correspond with 30 mm frame) but needed the shortest of these, 33mm instead. they were 505 yen a pop! shimano should just deduct the price of bolts from the brake price, and make it a separate part so each can buy what they need. this way it's just a waste of money, AND I now have a useless pair of bolts around......

but enough small talk. let me introduce you to her (all the welds and BBs exposed etc) SFW

Phwoar!!!! Beautiful! Worth waiting for
 
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luka

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Thanks. I'm pleased overall. The original brass badge was kinda too loud for my taste, I prefer this subdued look. Just as good that a long weekend is coming, so I can commit to building it up thoroughly
 
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luka

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Yeah the prices will fluctuate. I'm sure they'll roll out a 2020 model soon (gr 280?) etc etc.

It's funny how I find more and more people having this frame (or the road one r270) around me, but we never realized we were getting the same thing. I guess it's popular...
 
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luka

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having issues on the effing step 1. just trying to put the saddle on the seatpost. assembly here says in step 1 the wedges should come removed just by loosening the bolt, but mine won't budge. in the FAQ they treat the issue with the saddle in, essentially hit the nose of the saddle to break it loose. but I don't have anything that could work as a lever like that now. tried hitting with rubber mallet all over, even with allen key against the thing, but wanna damage it. did you have similar problems @Cactaur ? any tips?
 

luka

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don't have one of just the right size that could go in. tried a QR but it won't fit. 4mm allen key went in, but as it's not round it's biting into it, so I backed off... but that's gotta be the best bet, try and find something thin and long that can go in there I guess