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Lynskey frames this and that

@luka - I am sure there are many good plastic or carbon bottle cages that last, are lightweight and grasp the bottles well, but I like the King stainless steel bottle cages that I have on my Elephant NFE - they last forever, have a classic look and I never lost a bottle. I bought mine at Blue Lug, but you can also find them on Amazon (JPY 2,700) and other shops.

On my Bike Friday I had Minoura aluminium cages for the second bottle behind the seat tube. They look nice and are available in choice of colours but I don't really recommend them. I have had bottles pop out when going over a bump. Two of them cracked after one year each. Then I got the heavier MTB version which seems sturdier, but I do most of my riding on the Elephant now anyway.
 
thanks @leicaman @joewein those kings look nice, and have good reviews etc too. I think I'll get one for starters and see how it does. as an added bonus, by researching where they are selling them, I found a great looking little LBS, new apparently, just 1-2 km away from me. will prolly check it out tmr!
 
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Yup, get IceTech rotors, i. e. XT-level and above on the MTB side or Ultegra-level and above on the road bike side. And for a gravel bike, go with 160 mm front and rear.
 
I use the SM-RT81 Icetech centerlock rotors, 160 mm front and rear on my NFE.

I think the 800s that you mentioned also have cooling fins, but I have never had any issues with overheating and I often do steep rindo descents where you can't get much aero-braking and pretty much have to use your brakes to shed all the potential energy of the descent. This may be different for bigger guys.

Regarding 180 vs 160 vs 140 mm, a bigger rotor can shed more heat, wears a bit more slowly and is more grabby (i.e. it's easier to lock up the wheel). It's also a tiny bit heavier. You can easily change rotor sizes by using adapters that move the caliper further away from the axle.

With the old IS mount, the same adapter (which was always needed) would work out as one size up at the front (160F = 140R, 180F = 160R) and the smallest size rotor at the front was 160. With post mount, this is no longer the case. The are road bikes with 140F and a +20 mm adapter works the same way front and rear. An adapter is only needed if you want to use a rotor bigger than the default (along with longer bolts).
 
I use the SM-RT81 Icetech centerlock rotors, 160 mm front and rear on my NFE.
Agreed. Many higher-end road bikes use 160 mm in the front and 140 mm in the rear, but even there I never really understood the rationale: the gains are so marginal (the radii are so small that the added rotational moment of inertia is negligible) while you just add a layer of safety. For a gravel bike, this is really a no brainer. And it allows you to more safely ride with a bike trailer (for kids) if that is your thing.
 
I think the rationale for 140 on the rear vs 160 on the front is that as you brake this shifts the weight distribution towards the front (because the center of gravity and therefore momentum is above the contact patch). Loading the front wheel and unloading the rear means that you can put down less brake force at the rear before you lose traction. You're more likely to skid the rear wheel than the front. Giving the rear brake less leverage reduces the chance of rear wheel lockup.

Also, in race conditions where you would brake as hard as possible as as late possible before cornering to maintain the highest average speed, the weight shift will be such that if you were to get any brake fade from overheating the rotors, it will always happen on the front first, regardless of the rear rotor size. There's simply not enough work left for the rear. That's why cars often only have ventilated disk brakes on the front, or even use drum brakes at the rear.

However, if you're not racing and not interested in downhill KOMs, you will not be braking as late and as hard as possible. When your rear brake gets nowhere near its traction limit during most of your braking it makes perfect sense that it will be set up similar to your front. You will be using the rear brake along with the front, to even out tyre and pad wear and to minimize risks in slippery situations. And if you should ever realize in the middle of a ride that you are overdue for a change of front brake pads (because you don't have a team mechanic and you are lazy), having more effective rear brakes can save the day.
 
thanks for your input. was fairly ignorant of much of this, but have decided from before 160 mm rotors it will be, front and rear. since I have flat mounts, and only the front brake came with the adapter, I guess I'll have to buy the rear one, but so be it... the bleeding frameset should be shipping one of these days finally too!
 
shimano has helpfully compiled the whole compatibility chart, so I got these rotors (XTRs?) as I've found a sweet deal on Rakuten (under 6000 yen each, free shipping)

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I think the rationale for 140 on the rear vs 160 on the front is that as you brake this shifts the weight distribution towards the front (because the center of gravity and therefore momentum is above the contact patch). Loading the front wheel and unloading the rear means that you can put down less brake force at the rear before you lose traction. You're more likely to skid the rear wheel than the front. Giving the rear brake less leverage reduces the chance of rear wheel lockup.
On a road bike you'd be right, but with wider tires you have a lot more traction and you need larger disc rotors. Try braking with a MTB and a road bike on tarmac: the MTB will be able to stop much more quickly. The frame @luka has chosen can take MTB tires, and hardtail MTBs come with 180 mm in the front and 160 mm in the rear. Gravel bikes lie in the middle and usually come with 160 mm front and rear. If you weigh a bit more or want to tow a trailer, larger rotors will also give you a bit of extra safety margin. (I suspect that's why less expensive road bikes with disc rotors often come with 160 mm front and rear, perhaps the average customer tends to be less lean than for that high-end race geometry road bike that has 160/140.)

Also, in race conditions where you would brake as hard as possible as as late possible before cornering to maintain the highest average speed, the weight shift will be such that if you were to get any brake fade from overheating the rotors, it will always happen on the front first, regardless of the rear rotor size.
Off road you want to use the rear brake more often for different things (e. g. to be able to steer while breaking in the rear), so the rear brake sees more action. Of course, the bulk of the braking power still comes from the front if all you want to do is stop asap.
 
Got a pleasant surprise from Hunt this morning. My wheels shipped and were scheduled to arrive on Friday. I moved them to Saturday as I won't be home to pay the import fees on Friday. Originally they were only supposed to arrive at Hunt warehouse this week and be forwarded to me sometime next week. So this comes 10 days or so sooner than expected.

Otoh, a totally opposite example of customer expectations management from lynskey. When we first chatted on July 1 they told he the frameset would ship in 5 business days. But when I placed my order right there, this turned into July 19 or sooner. Even if we allow the whole first week of July off for the 4th celebrations, this was still 10 business days at least.

Had no updates from them since, so I contacted them in my initiative, only to receive a short message this morning: apparently they have some delays in fork deliveries so it won't ship this week. Maybe around July 26. First I thought they are giving me ultra conservative estimates so they can be sure to meet and exceed them, but it turns out that's not so. Not pleased...
 
I was out riding over the weekend and I could have done with that gravel bike on the wet rindo descents. The CAAD really isn't quite up to the job on days like this weekend.
 
Yes, branches, leaves, moss, debris, running water, metal grates, potholes, I've seen it all. Especially bad after rain and typhoons etc. Stay safe everyone.

For this build, it looks like the frameset is gonna be the very last thing to get delivered. But it's not really about time it takes, but if they are upfront about it or not, and when delayed do they update people or not. In that respect I'm disappointed so far I must say
 
Think you need to chill a little. So it has taken a couple more weeks than they originally said. Ain't the end of the world. When I ordered my Berk saddle from starbike they said it would be a week. That turned into 6. Try waiting 19months for a frame when you were originally told 3.
I doubt any frame builder will be emailing all their customers if there are delays of 2 or 3 weeks.
 
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@luka You ordered it on Friday, July 1 and they said 1 day for processing the order and 5 business days before it ships. So that puts shipment date at roughly July 9. I think I'm as almost as anxious for you to get this frame as you are and can't wait to see the build up and final product. But, July 9 to today is only 8 days... so it's a bit early. Have they notified you the frame was sent and given you a tracking number yet? If not, then I'm with you, they need to keep you informed.
 
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I'm not making a big fuss about this, just wanna show on 2 concrete and opposite examples how to manage and mismanage customer expectations.

@Karl this is what I was told on July 1, during the sales talk:
"Frameset would ship out in approx 5 business days."

when the order was processed on the following day, this morphed into (note, not 9 but 19):

"Based on our current inventory levels, your frame size is already in production and is scheduled to ship on or before 7/19/2019 ."

total radio silence ever since. I contacted them last night and only get:

"Hello- I am so sorry - but we are being delayed somewhat - our fork are late shipping to us- we are planning to have them to us around July 26- I am so sorry for the inconvenience"

so they keep shifting the goal poles, and the only update comes if you go pester them about it. the first sales-talk estimate of 5 business days is obviously false and I now think it's purely a sales tactic to lock people into buying. but they set those expectations themselves. if I was told from the start it's gonna take 3-4 weeks I would approach things quite differently, incl not having to scavenge the internet for parts and research when pressed for time etc.

@leicaman if I was buying a made-to-order frame things would be different. also buying through distributors etc. this is off the rack frame, and I approached them directly. they tell me 5 days and I assume this is already in stock, just waiting for my custom finishing etc. not that it's dependent on uninterrupted titanium supply from south sudan or something. so they were either very misleading at the least, or highly incompetent (sales don't know what the back stock has - pretty unlikely)

as things are now, the frameset seems to be set for shipping sometime late next week ("around July 26"), and I might get it in a week from then, at the earliest. not the end of the world by any means, but not how you ideally wanna run a business. I am held to a much higher standard in my line of work daily, and am used to handling loads of people day by day.

so I reemphasize here, this is how you do it - Hunt. make reasonable deadlines, and if you can beat them - great.

this is how to make sure the customer loses patience - Lynskey. inflate customer's expectations unrealistically. keep them in the dark and keep shifting the deadlines
 
@luka If they are upfront about the delivery date and you're ok with it, then shoganai, but if they promise a delivery date, then keep moving the date back further and further .... that sucks. Patience is not my strong suit either.
 
I'm not making a big fuss about this, just wanna show on 2 concrete and opposite examples how to manage and mismanage customer expectations.

@Karl this is what I was told on July 1, during the sales talk:
"Frameset would ship out in approx 5 business days."

when the order was processed on the following day, this morphed into (note, not 9 but 19):

"Based on our current inventory levels, your frame size is already in production and is scheduled to ship on or before 7/19/2019 ."

total radio silence ever since. I contacted them last night and only get:

"Hello- I am so sorry - but we are being delayed somewhat - our fork are late shipping to us- we are planning to have them to us around July 26- I am so sorry for the inconvenience"

so they keep shifting the goal poles, and the only update comes if you go pester them about it. the first sales-talk estimate of 5 business days is obviously false and I now think it's purely a sales tactic to lock people into buying. but they set those expectations themselves. if I was told from the start it's gonna take 3-4 weeks I would approach things quite differently, incl not having to scavenge the internet for parts and research when pressed for time etc.

@leicaman if I was buying a made-to-order frame things would be different. also buying through distributors etc. this is off the rack frame, and I approached them directly. they tell me 5 days and I assume this is already in stock, just waiting for my custom finishing etc. not that it's dependent on uninterrupted titanium supply from south sudan or something. so they were either very misleading at the least, or highly incompetent (sales don't know what the back stock has - pretty unlikely)

as things are now, the frameset seems to be set for shipping sometime late next week ("around July 26"), and I might get it in a week from then, at the earliest. not the end of the world by any means, but not how you ideally wanna run a business. I am held to a much higher standard in my line of work daily, and am used to handling loads of people day by day.

so I reemphasize here, this is how you do it - Hunt. make reasonable deadlines, and if you can beat them - great.

this is how to make sure the customer loses patience - Lynskey. inflate customer's expectations unrealistically. keep them in the dark and keep shifting the deadlines
From my end, you just sound like a whining little 5 year old girl who can't have her doll 😜
 
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