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Inner Tubes?

CoffinDodger

Speeding Up
Dec 4, 2008
212
13
Have given up trying to patch the Maxxis 'Lightweight' thing. This for 700c. What is a reasonable price to pay for a tube these days? Remember, I am just a commuter, not one of you serious boys.
 
between 700 and 900 yen for a good commuting tube.
 
I've been having pretty good luck with both the Panaracer and Vittoria. BTW - Bic Camera has a pretty good (and cheap) selection of commuter parts. Make sure you have a good quality rimstrip, too!
 
I've been having pretty good luck with both the Panaracer and Vittoria. BTW - Bic Camera has a pretty good (and cheap) selection of commuter parts. Make sure you have a good quality rimstrip, too!

The inside of the current rim is completely smooth.....rim tape I know fits between the tube and rim to negate any contact? Bic Camera is a six mile walk unfortunately. I'll do a round trip of the local bike shops today anyway. Hopefully.
 
If your rims are drilled for it getting 27inch tubes from the home center will suffice nicely esp if you need to get air in the unlikely event you lose your pump.
 
Back again.

Went out and purchased another tube. Fitted it correctly, so I thought, inflated, my track style pump has no gauge so relied on finger pressure as usual - just get a tiny bit of deflection on the tyre. All well & good.

Quick test ride to combini. 3 minutes later...Bang.

Now what?

Back home, there is a 2-3 inch split in the tube around 10 inches from the valve, located halfway between the 'top' and the 'bottom'. I can't see anything in the tyre that might have caused this (stray wire?)

The tube I got was a Panasonic 'Panaracer' 700c for 23-26 width, with a short valve. Is it something I've done when fitting the tube, or (sounds unlikely) a faulty tube? I don't think I overinflated it, if that had been the case it would have gone straight away?

And I didn't use any rim tape.
 
You had the tube trapped under the bead of the tyre when you inflated it.

When you install the tube, pump it up a little bit, just enough for it to take a round section. Push it into the tyre (assuming you have one bead already on the rim). Pop the other bead onto the rim. Now, work your way around both beads. Push the bead towards the centre line of the rim. You should not be able to see the tube. If you can, you need to take the tyre off and start again. Once you have verified that the tube is not caught under the bead of the tyre, you can inflate it fully.

Good luck :)
 
Like Alan says, you probably had the tube "pinched" between the edge of your tyre and the rim.

In addition to what Alan says, you can also coat both the tube and inside of the tyre with baby (talcum) powder which helps to stop the tube getting trapped.

Also USE RIM TAPE! If you don't you are sure to get a puncture as the tube sits in the holes where the spokes attach to the rim. I would even go as far as recommending 2 layers of rim tape. Panaracer make a plastic tape loop that is easy to sit onto the rim.

http://www.takizawa-web.com/shop-tire10/other/rimtape.html

Good luck!

Andy
 
ok. This rim tape, can it be transferred easily enough? Reason is, I have a replacement rear wheel coming this week with any luck.
 
I'm using exactly this combination for my training / commuting wheels - quite happy with the durability and that includes several excursions over concrete steps, curbs, grates and other deriatus one encounters on the city streets. The plastic rim tape by Panaracer is flexible enough to transfer to other rims.
 
Also USE RIM TAPE!
Not always necessary. Some brands/models of wheel (I use Mavic) have smooth rims and should not be used with rim tape. I don't think this thread mentions CoffinDodger's wheel brand/model.

The tip about talc is a good one. I always do this when changing tubes/tires at home. I keep a ziploc bag with powder in it. Pop the tube in; give it a shake; ready to load! Tubes and tires, both being made of rubber, can stick to each other over time even with no adhesive present. The powder helps prevent this sticking, so subsequent (roadside) changes are quicker and safer.

This guy knows what he's doing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4ZQMRT12Sg

--Mike--
 
insiderim.jpg


this is what it looks like. It's a LORC ?? branded rim, cheap & cheerful. The black surface you see, looks rather like some kind of sprayed on plastic, rather than conventional tape. Possibly a prefitted liner? Not my specialist subject.

I think I might have had about 7 months use of this tyre/tube combo, and the rim around 18 months use.

What I'm asking is, do I really still need rim tape? Kinda increases the cost of the repair by a factor of 130%.
 
I see no rim tape...

The spoke holes in the photo have sharp edges and will puncture your inner tubes in a matter of a few minutes or seconds even. I always use rim tape even if the manufacturer claims there is no need for it. The trial and error process :warau: taught me so! Rime tape only costs around 600 yen - one shouldn't economize on this vital item. Looking at those holes, in your case - and as Andy recommended below - I would use 2 layers.


insiderim.jpg


this is what it looks like. It's a LORC ?? branded rim, cheap & cheerful. The black surface you see, looks rather like some kind of sprayed on plastic, rather than conventional tape. Possibly a prefitted liner? Not my specialist subject.

I think I might have had about 7 months use of this tyre/tube combo, and the rim around 18 months use.

What I'm asking is, do I really still need rim tape? Kinda increases the cost of the repair by a factor of 130%.
 
Through experience I've come to the conclusion that being a cheapskate when it comes to maintainance costs you more in the long run. 600 Yen for rim tape which is a 1 off purchase is nothing in the long run of things.
 
I see no rim tape...

The spoke holes in the photo have sharp edges and will puncture your inner tubes in a matter of a few minutes or seconds even. I always use rim tape even if the manufacturer claims there is no need for it. The trial and error process :warau: taught me so! Rime tape only costs around 600 yen - one shouldn't economize on this vital item. Looking at those holes, in your case - and as Andy recommended below - I would use 2 layers.

This is the point I was trying to convey, these recesses have utterly smooth edges. Only rimtape I could find locally was 1160 (2 pcs). Could I just use cloth reinforced parcel tape?
 
Ok those holes would have probably caused your first puncture, as you inflate the inner tube the air would expand and look for any area to expand into.

Those holes for instance.

When part of the tube had passed through the hole it would find its self having more room inside the rim wall to expand the rubber of the innertube around the lip of the hole would have been stretch very thinly as the compressed air forced it in to any availlable gap and when more presure was placed upon the tire while riding the inner tube finally gave way.

Think of blowing a balloon up and then griping it tightly around the middle.... you hands are smooth but you are appyling even more pressures that will cause the balloon to pop.
 
I couldn't see how I had gone for 6 months with no problem (and no rimtape) but, based on the 'ounce of prevention' adage, have used some electrical insulating tape which I already had; so far so good.
 
Rim tape

It looks like your rim does in fact have (plastic) rim tape installed. The indentations are where it has stretched into the holes below. If there was no rim tape, you would be able to see the spokes & spoke nipples. The holes would have obvious sharp edges as shown
30825.jpg


As long as this plastic tape stayed centred and covers all of the holes you will be fine. The insulating tape you added will help hold it in place.

There are only a few wheels that can be used without rim tape - Shimano Dura-Ace and Ultegra Road Tubeless and most of the Mavic Ksyriums are the only ones I can think of.
 
Ever experimenting, I just tried the double rim tape idea on my GrandeCompe fixed gear rim. The tire is already a bugger to get on and with double rim tapes, even that little extra thickness made it basically impossible. I scarfed 2 tubes then went back to 1 layer. No issues running 2 layers on my Campy rims whatsoever, the dish is just that much deeper.
 
Footnote to this -- prepping for Kusatsu I decided to change to the Vittorio EVO (20mm). I ended up with 2 layer tape on my Campy front rim and 1 layer on my GranCompe rear. Both are holding ok at 10bar. For how long - we'll find out. If I could find some nipple plugs I'd feel alot more confident in the higher pressure. Both my tubes showed signs of stress even with the double tape.
 
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