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So.... I just walked outside and right back in.
I will be wearing shorts again, but today I am putting a wool jersey on. My legs rarely get cold, but once my chest gets too much cold air, I am done. Not that I cannot ride, I just don't want to at that point.
I hear you,it is always a problem to get another water into your system when it is cold.Having a gulp of cold H2O is always not the first thing on riders' minds particularly when our fingertips are freezing off.Well done for getting out both Sat/Sun.27km of up/down/up/down/up....
Ran into a bunch of other riders I know, so a little more chatting this morning than normal.
I ended up going with a wool jersey and a light jacket. This was perfect for the first 3/4s of the ride.
I started getting chilly toward the end, but assumed it was wind of something... but when i got home, I realized my jacket and jersey were soaked through with sweat. I am also suffering hours later from a stupid dehydration headache. I drank water the entire ride, but for whatever reason I am suffering today.
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You can make things a lot easier, for relatively little investment. A 32 gear on the back would make a massive difference in keeping your cadence up when climbing. You could just get an old cassette and MTB derailleur. But a new 105 groupset would transform your bike...This is not a great setup for climbing, right?
I got even bigger gears at the front (52/36) and same as you at the rear 11/28 and love climbing and don't have problems with it with this setup. 28 cassettes are newcomers, it used to be 23 or 25 only just several years ago no?50/34 crankset with a 11/28 casette on the back
Actually it's quite good, the only easier roadie setup is 11-32. But if you have Sora shifters, then you only have 9 gears, so an 11-32 cassette will be quite gappy. And depending on where you live and ride, you don't actually need the 32 sprocket in the rear.After chatting with @Sibreen the other day, I actually got round to doing a bit of reading about gears (see here and here for beginner links). It appears I've got a Sora 50/34 crankset with a 11/28 casette on the back - the other crankarm is Tiagra, btw. I'm also pretty sure the crank length is 170mm. I'm 182cm tall with pretty long legs. This is not a great setup for climbing, right?
The de facto new standard on many Shimano-equipped bikes aimed at advanced riders is 52/36 in the front and 11-30 in the back. You get half an extra gear on the top end and have essentially the same ratio as 34/28 for climbing. For undulating terrain, I never shift out of my big chain ring (50 up front and I usually go to 28 in the rear with one gear to go). For long sustained climbs I think 34/28 or 36/30 is better. On recovery rides or for cross chaining to start uphill at a traffic light, I do appreciate 50/32, though. And on one or two climbs (~900 meters of elevation) I do use my bail out gear 34/32.I got even bigger gears at the front (52/36) and same as you at the rear 11/28 and love climbing and don't have problems with it with this setup.
You'd also have less gears to choose from. The gear spacing of an 11-speed 11-28 cassette is identical to that of a 10-speed 11-25 cassette. But I don't think that adage no longer holds much water. Pros use 11-32 cassettes regularly on certain stages for good reason. Yes, they usually have larger chain rings, but having a larger gear spread means less grinding (higher cadence), but not necessarily that you are slower.28 cassettes are newcomers, it used to be 23 or 25 only just several years ago no?