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Confused about Cassettes and Spacers

Sheep

Maximum Pace
Jul 27, 2009
285
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Pretty much a newbie thing here. I recently bought DAce 9000 C24 wheels to upgrade from the R500s that came with my bike. Everywhere I look it seems to say that in order to use my 105 5700 10-speed cassette I need to use both the 1.8mm spacer that comes with the wheels AND the 1mm spacer that came with the cassette.

I've never seen that 1mm spacer... the cassette seemed to work fine on the R500s, shifting ok, no loose cogs, and now I've mounted it on the C24 there's again no looseness and shifting so far seems ok. Pretty much 100% sure the 1mm spacer wasn't shipped with the bike.

So... is the information wrong everywhere or am I somehow going crazy? o_O Appreciate any thoughts!
 
You will need at least the 1.8mm spacer that 'corrects' the 11sp hub length to 10sp length. This is primarily so the lock ring will engage properly. As for the thinner spacer that is sometimes found on 10sp cassettes - using this depends on chainline position, cassette - to - spoke clearance and derailleur clearance.
 
If the lockring engages properly with the sprocket and not the freebody, e.g. you can feel it tightening against the small dimples you should be ok
 
Actually with the 10sp cassette on 11sp freehub its generally an issue that the outer (11T or 12T cog) might 'float' even if the lockring seems tight. So, yeah - feeling the dimples or detents when you tighten are important. The other way (11sp cassette onto 10sp freebody) is more troublesome - generally there is not enough distance to stack all the cogs (hence the 1.8mm longer length).
 
Thanks for all the advice - ok I'll check it. Pretty sure it locked against the dimples, but will check that outer cog to make sure.
 
I had the same worry when building my bike. The few mentions online talked about using both the 1mm and the 1.8spacer. What made me feel uncomfortable about that, is that the wheels come with the 1.8mm spacer and the 1mm comes with the cassette. That 1mm spacer is described on the cassette documentation as only being necessary for using the "10speed cassette on a 9speed hub".
(experts please correct me if I'm on the next bit) I think these days there's no such thing as a 9speed or 10 speed hub on shimano wheels and that it's just the same hub, hence you are supposed to use the 1mm spacer on every standard* shimano hub when you fit a 10speed cassette. Other non-shimano 10 speed wheel hubs used with shimano cassettes maybe sized 1mm less and therefore cannot use a 9-speed cassette but don't need the spacer with a 10speed cassette.

End result is that I got comfortable by reading the Shimano online dealer documentation (not supplied with the wheels^^) for the 11 speed C24's. It clearly shows both spacers being used and the order you are meant to fit them.
I actually upgraded my 1mm spacer and so I know exactly where you can get one -
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-cs-hg-1mm-sprocket-spacer/

*non-11-speed
 
The only things you need to check:

1) The derailler clears the spokes on the upper cog.
2) The cassette 'stack' tightens so there is no float of any cogs
3) The chain clears the stays on the lowest cog and you can shift to it with no issues

chainline freaks may protest - but I'm assuming you have a 'std' bike to begin with. The freebody stack varies somewhat between mfg - and so does the offset against the hub (hence the spacer). Sometimes you need them, sometimes you don't. For 10sp cassette on 11sp freebody (Shimano) you will at least need the 1.8mm spacer. Whether you need or use the 1mm spacer just depends on 1,2,3 above.
 
Well, I nipped to the shop, bought the 1mm spacer as it's cheap as chips and tried with both spacers. Shifts beautifully now, so while I'm still not sure whether it's strictly necessary I'll keep them both on (and keep doing homework about all this!)
 
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