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Today August 2022

Did the plum line from the front of my kneecap and it goes right through the spindle
KOPS is pretty much discredited now. Ball park is fine.
Was about 2cm too high earlier
it did look a little high.
and the breaking power
see if you can get someone to check that the alignment is good and the pads are not glazed.

Yes, you must buy special shoes and special pedals and ensure that the former are clipped in to the latter!

Except that no you needn't.
opinions are like that :)
 
KOPS is pretty much discredited now. Ball park is fine.

it did look a little high.

see if you can get someone to check that the alignment is good and the pads are not glazed.


opinions are like that :)
Yeah the actual brakes work fine and well, very well. To me they look new. I think it's literally just the hoods are a little too low on the bars for me, maybe they were scooched down for a more aggressive rider?

I know I'm harping on about this but I just want to feel I can sufficiently brake while on the hoods, but I also think it's probably just a hand strength getting used to it thing.

As for clipless, I very much want to join that world.
 
I'll drop of here as I have nearly no experience with Shimano road levers.
except to say you should practice emergency stops at low speed so you get a feel for how much pressure you can exert from the tops.
 
If you're ever going to re-work cabling, consider some extra brake levers (Tektro, cheap). Maybe(?) a roadie faux pas/gauche, but super convenient--makes riding on top safe.

extra levers.jpeg
 
@microcord
What clipless pedals did you try? Road-style SPD-SL?

I converted to clipless pedals in my 20s. There are different systems with different pros and cons. Off-road I love Crankbrothers pedals, because they have more float and you don't feel clipped in most of the time, unless you want to. On my road bike I'm using Shimano, but that's a coincidence: I won Ultegra pedals at a raffle. Otherwise I'd use Eggbeaters.

Clipless pedals have the advantage that they allow for more variety when pedaling: you can pull to give the muscles that push a little of a break. Clipping in and out is eventually committed to muscle memory and you instinctively do the right thing when you have to.
 
Yeah the actual brakes work fine and well, very well. To me they look new. I think it's literally just the hoods are a little too low on the bars for me, maybe they were scooched down for a more aggressive rider?

I know I'm harping on about this but I just want to feel I can sufficiently brake while on the hoods, but I also think it's probably just a hand strength getting used to it thing.

As for clipless, I very much want to join that world.
Glad to see you getting back on the bike!

Here is my unasked for advice based on a lot of trial and error (mostly error) in my riding.

You sound like you don't want to be a racer, but want to have a pleasurable experience on the bike, run fast sometimes, but mostly enjoy the ride. If that is true, then:

1. I'd set the bike up for comfort mostly. Less stretched out, a bit more upright position. Also better for commuting (IMO). Unless you intend to do a lot of fast paced riding, a more upright position will add comfort and a bit of safety.
2. Most of the time people ride on the hoods. I usually set up my shifters so they are best used on the hoods but can be used on the drops (which I use mostly for long descents or when riding into the wind). Getting a handlebar that has a short drop helped a lot with being able to position the shifters so that they were able to be used to brake effectively on both the hoods and drops. I use the Ritchey VentureMax, but there are many others now that have short drops.
3. I prefer flat pedals for commuting because with so many cars and often situations where you need to get off the pedals instantaneously, flats add to the safety factor (IMHO). I know that flats don't look cool on a nice road bike but at my age, I don't look cool on a road bike either, so I don't much care about looks. As you are concerned about safety, I'd recommend flats for commuting or local trips with lots of stop and starts or lots of traffic. You can always swap out the flats for clipless when you are going for a long ride somewhere. Takes only a minute or two.

I recently did move to clipless pedals to due to a problem I was having on long rides (getting hot spots on my feet). It solved the problem for me. FWIW, Shimano's pedals, for whatever reason, aggravated my knee because the pressure needed to clip out was just too much. Tried Eggbeaters and found them to be much better. Also tried the Speedplay ones (now taken over by Wahoo). Also great pedals...easy to clip in and out, lightweight. Good float so good on my knee. But YMMV.

I'm a slow rider, I care far more about safety and enjoyment than speed.
 
Yeah the actual brakes work fine and well, very well. To me they look new. I think it's literally just the hoods are a little too low on the bars for me, maybe they were scooched down for a more aggressive rider?
On a rim brake road bike you are limited in several ways:
  • You have the "worst" combination when it comes to braking performance: narrow 25 mm (?) tires, cable-actuated rim brakes and you are a heavier rider.
  • Overall, braking is limited by your tires. That is, you should be able to lock up your tires with your brakes, which means you can reach max breaking power.
  • Your brake force is actuated by cables, not hydraulics, i. e. there is more friction, less feedback and you cannot use leverage as efficiently. In real world terms, you need less finger force for the same amount of stopping power. If you have ever tried hydraulic rim brakes, you'll see that hydraulics make a huge difference. Hydraulically actuated brakes also give you more modulation. My mom's bike had hydraulic rim brakes, and she loved the ease with which she could brake. Hydraulic disc brakes are even better. Nowadays, hydraulic rim brakes are dead and there are only hydraulic disc brakes.
  • Lastly, breaking will always be better from the drops. You should be able to do all normal braking from the hoods, though. Emergency braking will likely be less efficient, though.
Since you just got the bike, what can you do?
  • I'd upgrade your tires and your brake pads.
  • You could also try to see if you can find better brakes. Cable-actuated rim brakes are cheap and you can find them used on e. g. Yahoo Auctions. You don't need to worry about compatibility with your drivetrain, just make sure they have the right mount for your frame, though.
  • Make sure your brake pads and the brake track on your wheels is clean.
  • Ride with foresight: if you think you might need to brake hard, go into the drops. As a cyclist, you become keenly aware of what e. g. drivers are doing. When a car sneaks out of a driveway and the driver doesn't even look into my direction, I will drift towards the center of the road if I can, let off the power and I might go into the drops if I have time.
 
@Chuck
Good points, just one comment:
3. I prefer flat pedals for commuting because with so many cars and often situations where you need to get off the pedals instantaneously, flats add to the safety factor (IMHO).
I think it is important to point out a downside of flat pedals: if you hit a pothole or if you ride offroad (which is not relevant here), you might slip off your flat pedals, and this can lead to bloody scrapes from the teeth of the pedals on your shin or calf. Or you might crash. While I admit this is more of concern offroad (I have the scars to prove it), being clipped in securely can be a safety benefit at times.

Overall, when you get used to it and you appreciate the benefits, being clipped in isn't an issue. The last time I have crashed because of my pedals was years ago. And I've been commuting with clipless pedals, too. I think it comes down to a matter of what you like: some people just don't like clipless pedals, and I can see why. It really takes a while until clipping in and out becomes second nature, like e. g. driving a manual. Especially Shimano-style road pedals really lock you in and clipping in and out is really non-trivial, it requires quite a bit of force. Although some people will quote that as an advantage: you are either clipped in or not. Like you, I prefer pedals with more float.
 
Once again, thank you all for the advice! I hit the road this morning around 6:15am and did my normal 20km training route. It's a pretty flat course with a big hill at the start, and at the end, so I got to try out the new fit on a climb, then some decent sweeping corners, riding through the main road of Aobadai, and then home along the Onda river.

I definitely felt way more comfortable. I paid attention to keeping my back straight and not hunching down. I'm strongly working on my posture in general (I naturally hunch from years of sitting in front of a CRT with my NES lol), so I paid special attention to every time I slumped on the bike, elongating my back to be straight. Definitely made a difference.

I felt more confident in the hoods this time too. I'm slowly getting better at the brakes, and used them exclusively while riding through the traffic on the Aobadai stretch. It wasn't an issue at all, and I was able to stop pretty effectively. I think as I get a little stronger (I was on a no exercise plan for 3 months after the accident basically, so I did loose a lot of physicality) this is going to be a non issue. My hands are already getting used to the different shape.

Overall a much more confident and better feeling ride. Neck isn't sore. Body isn't sore. I'll be saving for the next two months to get some 28c GP5000 as the first step. Then I guess I'll look into some clipless pedals and shoes after that. Very keen to go for a longer ride this weekend and see how I fare on the new bike.

And jumped on the scales and down to 87kg today! So now I'll focus on dropping down to 80, and that will also help with the braking performance too :p
 
@microcord
What clipless pedals did you try? Road-style SPD-SL?
Yes. Incidentally, I'm not saying that I prefer actual clips -- let alone the serious combination of clips, straps, and cleats (shudder). I'm comparing (A) being clipped in to "clipless" pedals to (B) leaving my running shoes unattached to anything other than my socks.

(@hellerphant , if you are starting to suspect that pedal/clip nomenclature is bizarre, yes, you are absolutely right.)

I recently did move to clipless pedals to due to a problem I was having on long rides (getting hot spots on my feet). It solved the problem for me. FWIW, Shimano's pedals, for whatever reason, aggravated my knee because the pressure needed to clip out was just too much. Tried Eggbeaters and found them to be much better. [...]
@hellerphant , Shimano's SPD pedals -- and, I'd guess, most "clipless" alternatives -- have adjustable clip-in/out-ability. Those I bought came set up for true athletes. It's all explained in the instructions leaflet, but if you're like me you're too lazy to read this.

On a rim brake road bike you are limited in several ways:
  • You have the "worst" combination when it comes to braking performance: narrow 25 mm (?) tires, cable-actuated rim brakes and you are a heavier rider.
  • Overall, braking is limited by your tires. That is, you should be able to lock up your tires with your brakes, which means you can reach max breaking power.
  • Your brake force is actuated by cables, not hydraulics, i. e. there is more friction, less feedback and you cannot use leverage as efficiently. In real world terms, you need less finger force for the same amount of stopping power. If you have ever tried hydraulic rim brakes, you'll see that hydraulics make a huge difference. Hydraulically actuated brakes also give you more modulation. My mom's bike had hydraulic rim brakes, and she loved the ease with which she could brake. Hydraulic disc brakes are even better. Nowadays, hydraulic rim brakes are dead and there are only hydraulic disc brakes.
  • Lastly, breaking will always be better from the drops. You should be able to do all normal braking from the hoods, though. Emergency braking will likely be less efficient, though.
Since you just got the bike, what can you do?
  • I'd upgrade your tires and your brake pads.
  • You could also try to see if you can find better brakes. Cable-actuated rim brakes are cheap and you can find them used on e. g. Yahoo Auctions. You don't need to worry about compatibility with your drivetrain, just make sure they have the right mount for your frame, though.
  • Make sure your brake pads and the brake track on your wheels is clean.
  • Ride with foresight: if you think you might need to brake hard, go into the drops. As a cyclist, you become keenly aware of what e. g. drivers are doing. When a car sneaks out of a driveway and the driver doesn't even look into my direction, I will drift towards the center of the road if I can, let off the power and I might go into the drops if I have time.
Um, well actually using cable-operated brakes you need more finger force for the same amount of stopping power than you would if they were hydraulic (and in good condition).

Plenty of modulation with my rim brakes (except for one bike with cantilever brakes, an irrelevance here).

If people riding bikes with Shimano brakes set up correctly were unable to get these brakes to do a good job of stopping themselves from getting in front of trucks, etc, the resulting kerfuffle wouldn't be good for Shimano's PR. It's in Shimano's interest to avoid crappy braking. My impression is that all of Shimano's brakes (at least from Claris upwards, but probably cheaper models too) are pretty good or better. The best I have are 105 and those you're most likely to wonder about are decades-old RX100. When I switch from the bike with the former to the bike with the latter I don't notice the difference. (Not entirely true! The RX100 brakes are paired with cheapo, non-Shimano levers, which are more comfortable than are the brifters paired with 105.)

My Mavic Racer brakes (from the early 70s, I think) aren't so hot, but then they're trying to stop 622 mm rims from a frame designed for 630 mm rims under mudguards, and there's no simple way around the physics of leverage. And they're better (and much less noisy) now that I've realigned the pads with the help of this handy tool.

Actually, hellerphant, do check that the brake pads clamp on to the rim, and that none of the four even slightly contacts the tyre. (Ask your obliging missus to pull on the lever for the rear brake while you check this.)

The advice to drift toward the centre of the road is good. In general, avoid riding close to the curb/kerb: you're less visible; others are less visible to you. And while I no longer cycle to and from work (and not only because of laziness), while I was cycling I learned that a couple of short stretches were dangerous (in particular from pedestrians nonchalantly stepping off sidewalks) so I'd always slow there even when I saw no particular danger.
 
I'll be saving for the next two months to get some 28c GP5000 as the first step.

Continental Four Season and Panaracer Gravelking are two of several tyres that are more robust than GP5000 and thus more suitable for the adventures you'll soon be having, what with their reduced risk of punctures. They're fine on smooth asphalt too. (No doubt they're slightly slower on smooth asphalt than GP5000 or others, but who's timing you?)
 
@hellerphant late to the party, but I wouldn't adjust the bike too much while you get used to it. As per @OreoCookie, you need to work on your flexibility, especially in hamstrings. Once you get more comfortable with the bike, then do adjustments. Also I would say your lower back looks tight, I guess you have a desk job, so that's another thing you might want to work on.

Rim brakes are fine, I assume they are 105s or something similar. You might want to refresh the brake cables and lube everything. And you should practice emergency braking whenever you can and it's safe to do, aka no one is behind you. Don't expect brakes to do the job for you, it's a learned skill. When I had to get motorbike license, there's an emergency test and I had to practice a lot to pass it. No such thing with bicycles and people assume that anyone can do it. Learn how to use your tools and get comfortable with them. Few tips, don't jam on the brakes fast, squeeze them smoothly and in controlled way, you will not lock up that way, if your tires lock up, they are sliding and not braking. 90%+ braking power is in your front brake, rear brake is there for stability and if your rear is in the air it will not even do that.

Also, learn how to counter-steer so hopefully you can avoid using brakes.
 
Um, well actually using cable-operated brakes you need more finger force for the same amount of stopping power than you would if they were hydraulic (and in good condition).
Isn't that what I wrote? Hydraulically actuated brakes need less finger force.
Plenty of modulation with my rim brakes (except for one bike with cantilever brakes, an irrelevance here).
That hasn't been my experience. Rim brakes are a lot more binary, on and off, and provide much less feedback. (I suspect this is because you can only pull the cable taught in "one direction", but hydraulic fluid pushes back in both.) For example, I can tell from the vibrations in my fingers when a layer of water is on my disc brakes and when that layer is cleared. Brake feel is very much relevant on road bikes, because you can avoid locking up the tires more easily when you have more brake feel.
Yes. Incidentally, I'm not saying that I prefer actual clips -- let alone the serious combination of clips, straps, and cleats (shudder). I'm comparing (A) being clipped in to "clipless" pedals to (B) leaving my running shoes unattached to anything other than my socks.
The kind of lock in and feel are very different on different pedals, and I don't think you can throw them all in one bucket. On my Eggbeaters my feet can float freely as if they were not attached within a wide range of motion. With blue cleats my Shimano pedals keep my feet locked in like a vice. Clipping in and out also feels completely different. Some people love Crankbrothers pedals for this reason, others hate them for it. The feeling on Shimano road-style pedals and Shimano MTB pedals is very different, too.
If people riding bikes with Shimano brakes set up correctly were unable to get these brakes to do a good job of stopping themselves from getting in front of trucks, etc, the resulting kerfuffle wouldn't be good for Shimano's PR. It's in Shimano's interest to avoid crappy braking. My impression is that all of Shimano's brakes (at least from Claris upwards, but probably cheaper models too) are pretty good or better.
I don't know. I think most traditional road cyclists are simply used to relatively bad braking performance when compared to other bikes with wider tires. As far as I understand @hellerphant came from a bike with flatbars, and his experience that road bike brakes feel bad and sketchy mirrors mine. When I first switched to a road bike from a mountain bike, I thought braking was super shitty. I can stop much more quickly on mountain bikes for the simple reason that in most conditions mountain bike tires have much more traction and grip than road tires. (And I have 180 mm rotors front and rear on my mountain bikes, which help, too.) But of course, the flip side is much higher rolling resistance.
Continental Four Season and Panaracer Gravelking are two of several tyres that are more robust than GP5000 and thus more suitable for the adventures you'll soon be having, what with their reduced risk of punctures. They're fine on smooth asphalt too. (No doubt they're slightly slower on smooth asphalt than GP5000 or others, but who's timing you?)
Agreed, it is hard to go wrong with GP5000s. There are tires that are better in some aspects and applications. And perhaps there are tires that might be equally good. But you can't go wrong with them, especially if you do allround riding.
 
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Has continental corrected it, or do the 5000s still shed the stringy threads from along the bead/sidewall area?
 
seems the discounted ones are old and they shed threads.
Gotta pay full price for the good ones.
 
My friends experience with GP5000 tubed is that they aren't very durable. Sure they got good rolling resistance but a bit puncture prone, moreso than the old 4k.

I run gravelking slicks tubeless and it's been pretty good so far.
 
I am running GP5000TR, GP5000, & GP4000 on different wheels.
The GP4000 are the "standard" I judge most tires by... I have run these in both 23 & 25mm.

My regular GP5000 are more confidence inspiring under braking and cornering simultanously. Not that the 4000s are bad at it - because they are quite amazing. The 5000s just give a bit more feedback for me. I do run these in 28s.

The GP5000TR are on another level with traction. Lower pressures from tubeless and grip for days. mixed size 28f & 25R.

My experience with GP4000 700x25 - 10,000+km between flats.
My experience with GP5000 700x28 - 200km so far and not one issue, but not enough miles to see wear.
My experience with GP5000TR 700x28F & 700x25R- 800km so far and not one issue and no signs of unexpected wear.
My experience with Enve SES 700x27- 100km between flats.
 
Looking to buy some chamois creme. I liked the Morgan Blue because it was good for long rides w/o needing reapplication. Seems they don't make it anymore...or at least I couldn't find it on Amazon or Wiggle. I've used Assos creme but it didn't seem to last so long on hot sweaty days. Looks like MucOff has a new creme. Is it any good? Other, better options?
 
Looking to buy some chamois creme. I liked the Morgan Blue because it was good for long rides w/o needing reapplication. Seems they don't make it anymore...or at least I couldn't find it on Amazon or Wiggle. I've used Assos creme but it didn't seem to last so long on hot sweaty days. Looks like MucOff has a new creme. Is it any good? Other, better options?

I recommend ORONINE, available at any Japanese drug store.

Andy

lineup-product-250g.png
 
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